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Adjusting Tyrolia Attack Bindings

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  • Adjusting Tyrolia Attack Bindings

    Attack 13 TL;DR. Find the metal tab, lift it up move it forward and backward to get the boot to fit. Clip the metal tab in place. Check that only three dashed are outside of the plastic lip of the housing. AFD adjustment is on front of toe piece

    Attack 11 TL;DR. Find the metal tab, lift it up move it forward and backward to get the boot to fit. Clip the metal tab back in place. AFD adjustment is on front of toe piece


    This assumes that the bindings are on the correct mounting holes on a Spruce Riser. If not they will need to get remounted to the correct holes.

    Adjust for boot length (heel piece):

    The following information on the Attack 13 comes from Ski Monster. I haver reproduced the important part, in case the original site disappears.

    On the backside of the heel piece just above the track your binding sits on will be a metal tab protruding from the housing of the heel piece. On this metal tab will be six dashes of both sides. These dashes are for you reference and is the the main indicator for setting proper forward pressure.

    Now that we have an idea of what we will be looking for you can now engage your boot by hand so we can see where the forward pressure currently rests. The ultimate goal is to have that metal tab with six dashes fall directly in the middle of the bindings housing. So we are looking for three of the dashes to be within the housing of the binding and three exposed on the outside of the binding. This is perfect forward pressure, although many boots vary in millimeter lengths the goal is to land within the range of the dashes.

    If your tabs lands completely inside or outside the housing and adjustment needs to be made. To make this adjustment a flat head screw driver is the best tool for this operation. First disengage your boot so your binding is free and becomes workable. Now you will insert the flat head screwdriver beneath the metal tab with the dashes and you will leverage/lift up. This will separate the tab from the track and will now become movable. You will notice that once you have lifted the tab there is two sets of holes in linear fashion that run down the track. Beneath the tab you unlocked are two teeth protruding, these teeth lock into the sets of holes you see on the track. Incrementally moving the heel piece forward or backwards will cause the forward pressure indicator to move that eventually results in proper forward pressure.

    Adjust the AFD:

    You need a business card or anything of 0.5mm in thickness. A Phillips #3 screw driver is needed.

    Begin by engaging your boot into the binding and looking underneath the toe of the boot. If you look at the front of the toe piece of the binding you will notice a screw near the surface of the ski. Turning this screw CLOCKWISE will raise the height of the AFD and decrease the gap between the bottom of the boot. If the AFD is making contact try and insert a business card between the AFD and the bottom of the boot. If that card can’t enter and it folds over on itself then the AFD needs to be lowered. COUNTER-CLOCKWISE will lower the AFD and increase space between the boot and the AFD.

    Adjust the DIN:

    The DIN windows are located on both the toe and heel pieces. The DIN setting on your toe and heel piece should always be the same. On the heel piece there is a big screw at the back. ON the toe piece it is the small screw on the left of the binding. (Not to be confused with the AFD screw on the front). A Phillips #3 screw driver is needed.
    Current: '20 Spruce Slingshot 119s, '20 Spruce Crossbow 115s, '18 Spruce Osprey 132s (touring), '21 Rvl8 SII 104s, '21 Summit Invertigos 118s
    Also: '11 Allz Elaila 94s, '12 Rvl8 Rockered Condor 110s, '15 Spruce Osprey 132s , '18 Spruce Crossbow 115s
    Previous: Gaspo Hot Wax 84s, Mantrax 98s, Summit Nomad 99s, Spruce Yellow 120s, Eman Uprise 104s

  • #2
    Originally posted by ysb33r View Post
    Adjust the AFD:

    You need a business card or anything of 0.5mm in thickness. A Phillips #3 screw driver is needed.

    Begin by engaging your boot into the binding and looking underneath the toe of the boot. If you look at the front of the toe piece of the binding you will notice a screw near the surface of the ski. Turning this screw CLOCKWISE will raise the height of the AFD and decrease the gap between the bottom of the boot. If the AFD is making contact try and insert a business card between the AFD and the bottom of the boot. If that card can’t enter and it folds over on itself then the AFD needs to be lowered. COUNTER-CLOCKWISE will lower the AFD and increase space between the boot and the AFD.
    I remember this part was a bit unclear to me until I've seen a picture like this one :
    Click image for larger version

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    Myself: RVL8 2015 Blunt XL, RVL8 2009 ALPdors, Spruce 125 LE, Spruce 2016 Osprey
    Daughter: Twoowt Pirania 95cm; RVL8 2010 Revolt Trees; Spruce 120 Yellow/Red

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