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  • question on base and wax retention

    Hey Guys

    I was at my local indoor snowdome to test out my trees before I go on holiday. Had lots of fun carving and trying to get the hang of doing butters.

    anyway, before I went I hot waxed my boards with an all temp wax. When my 2 hours were up and I dryed the boards off I now notice some parts of the board are patchy white. I've heard when this happens the Base is dryed out and needs to be moisturised (waxed again)

    does this seem right after 2 hours use?

    I think I am going to get some quality low temp wax and try again, just wondering why the bases are drying out already.

    Also, when you are scraping the wax off the board how do you know when you have scaped enough and what do you guys do - use a pad and cork to give the wax a shine or use a brush to put small channels in?

    cheers

  • #2
    Hi Chuffy,

    The "durability" of the wax is dependent on a number of factors like, snow crystal structure, the wax, the application method, and even how you ride (flat or on edge).

    Are the lighter areas near the edges? If so, you are edging well and that is a good sign and normal.

    Also if the boards are new, it will take a few hot wax jobs before they "fill" the pores with wax. Note that the reason for scraping and brushing is to remove the excess wax, since it actually slows you down if it remains on the surface. The wax is to fill the pores.

    Here is a link that gives further insights on how to tune and wax:
    http://www.alpinecarving.com/tuning.html

    BTW: some skiers and boarders use a colder wax along the eges and their normal wax everywhere else. I do not bother. After a few waxings, I can usually get 2 to 3 days of riding out of a waxing.
    sigpic


    Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

    Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

    Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


    Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

    Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Chuffy View Post
      Hey Guys

      Also, when you are scraping the wax off the board how do you know when you have scaped enough and what do you guys do - use a pad and cork to give the wax a shine or use a brush to put small channels in?

      cheers
      you scrap off all the wax, there should be no wax left on the bases whatesoever. what you want is absorbed by the bases.

      i use a metal brush after scraping and then a softer brush to finish off.
      Fox-Trotting - Thrifty Wanderlust & Adventures

      Skiboard Magazine

      Comment


      • #4
        I use no brush, just a scraper. But that's not because I think it's bettter without, but because I don't have a brush and haven't bothered to get one. Anyways, the parts on my boards that need waxing first for me are generally the area near the tips.
        Chickens with Spruce Pro Lite
        Line Jedis with Snowjams

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by slow View Post
          Hi Chuffy,

          The "durability" of the wax is dependent on a number of factors like, snow crystal structure, the wax, the application method, and even how you ride (flat or on edge).

          Are the lighter areas near the edges? If so, you are edging well and that is a good sign and normal.

          Also if the boards are new, it will take a few hot wax jobs before they "fill" the pores with wax. Note that the reason for scraping and brushing is to remove the excess wax, since it actually slows you down if it remains on the surface. The wax is to fill the pores.

          Here is a link that gives further insights on how to tune and wax:
          http://www.alpinecarving.com/tuning.html

          BTW: some skiers and boarders use a colder wax along the eges and their normal wax everywhere else. I do not bother. After a few waxings, I can usually get 2 to 3 days of riding out of a waxing.

          Yeah the white parts are around the edges of the board so I should give them another hot wax yeah?

          Thanks for all the advice, I don't think I got all the wax off as I could still scrath wax off with my finger nail so next time I'll scrape more.

          Comment


          • #6
            Also, I think indoor arificial snow is worse on bases, probably the chemicals they use in it.
            Revel8 BWP - Spruce Pro Prime
            SnowJam 90 - Extreme II

            Comment


            • #7
              One thing to note about brushes:

              Steel brushes are for creating structure (surface texture in the ptex to minimize suction) prior to waxing.

              Brass brushes are to expose structure after waxing with a cold (hard) temp wax. (I beleive this is what Jason is referring to)

              Nylon and horse hair brushing for warmer temp (softer) waxes.

              For most of us, the nylon brush is a good addition to your tool kit. When done well, you will notice a significant improvement in glide.
              sigpic


              Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

              Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

              Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


              Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

              Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

              Comment


              • #8
                I use a steel brush and a nylon brush. I mostly ride icy conditions so I don't know if this is necessarily a good thing.
                Revel8 ALPdors
                Gold Revel8 Receptors
                Kneissl Flexon Pro Boots

                ____
                ____
                Be who you are, it makes you charismatic...
                If life's not beautiful without the pain, well I'd just rather never ever even see beauty again.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Cheers guys,

                  I will be giving them another wax with better quality stuff.

                  Should I use a base cleanner to remove the old wax or is there no point to this?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I do but I don't know how well it really works.
                    Revel8 ALPdors
                    Gold Revel8 Receptors
                    Kneissl Flexon Pro Boots

                    ____
                    ____
                    Be who you are, it makes you charismatic...
                    If life's not beautiful without the pain, well I'd just rather never ever even see beauty again.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by slow View Post
                      One thing to note about brushes:

                      Steel brushes are for creating structure (surface texture in the ptex to minimize suction) prior to waxing.

                      Brass brushes are to expose structure after waxing with a cold (hard) temp wax. (I beleive this is what Jason is referring to)

                      Nylon and horse hair brushing for warmer temp (softer) waxes.

                      For most of us, the nylon brush is a good addition to your tool kit. When done well, you will notice a significant improvement in glide.
                      Only other important thing I would add about brushing and scraping for that matter is do it all in one direction straight down tip to tail.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Chuffy View Post
                        Cheers guys,

                        I will be giving them another wax with better quality stuff.

                        Should I use a base cleanner to remove the old wax or is there no point to this?
                        At least once a season to permit a check of the structure and identify any defects hidden by waxing.
                        sigpic


                        Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

                        Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

                        Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


                        Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

                        Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I dont use base cleaner unless I have a repair to do. If you want to clean the bases, hot wax generously with a soft wax, and scrape off. This takes the grime up to the surface and it then gets scraped away. Wax takes about 5 to 10 applications to work fully into a sintered base like the Trees, so over time they will hold wax better and better. I use the Milton Keynes snowdome, and find it totally strips wax. Your wax will stay on way longer on natural snow.
                          At the end of the season, hot wax with a soft wax, but dont scrape. Put your boards away with the wax still on, and during the warm months the oils in the wax will seep into the bases. Hot wax and scrape/brush again just before the season begins.
                          When you get to the hill, leave your boards sitting base down on the snow for a few mins before using them if you can. This brings the bases down to snow temperature straight off, which improves glide and helps prevent wax stripping off early.
                          Enjoy :-)
                          Crossbow (go to dream board)
                          Most everything else over time.
                          Go Android

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by valmorel View Post
                            I dont use base cleaner unless I have a repair to do. If you want to clean the bases, hot wax generously with a soft wax, and scrape off. This takes the grime up to the surface and it then gets scraped away. Wax takes about 5 to 10 applications to work fully into a sintered base like the Trees, so over time they will hold wax better and better. I use the Milton Keynes snowdome, and find it totally strips wax. Your wax will stay on way longer on natural snow.
                            At the end of the season, hot wax with a soft wax, but dont scrape. Put your boards away with the wax still on, and during the warm months the oils in the wax will seep into the bases. Hot wax and scrape/brush again just before the season begins.
                            When you get to the hill, leave your boards sitting base down on the snow for a few mins before using them if you can. This brings the bases down to snow temperature straight off, which improves glide and helps prevent wax stripping off early.
                            Enjoy :-)
                            Thanks for the helpful input. After I finish I always have a small towel in my bag to dry the boards off but when I put them away for a few days do I put some oil on the edges to stop rust?

                            Cheers

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Chuffy View Post
                              Thanks for the helpful input. After I finish I always have a small towel in my bag to dry the boards off but when I put them away for a few days do I put some oil on the edges to stop rust?

                              Cheers
                              A little rub on wax is better. I have heard oil can attack the base and lead to de-lamination.
                              Crossbow (go to dream board)
                              Most everything else over time.
                              Go Android

                              Comment

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