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Extreme carving on short skis
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Extreme carving on short skis
Current: '20 Spruce Slingshot 119s, '20 Spruce Crossbow 115s, '18 Spruce Osprey 132s (touring), '21 Rvl8 SII 104s, '21 Summit Invertigos 118s
Also: '11 Allz Elaila 94s, '12 Rvl8 Rockered Condor 110s, '15 Spruce Osprey 132s , '18 Spruce Crossbow 115s
Previous: Gaspo Hot Wax 84s, Mantrax 98s, Summit Nomad 99s, Spruce Yellow 120s, Eman Uprise 104sTags: None
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I'd like to be able to carve like that, but I think I'm not in shape enough to do so. Besides being a skilled snow rider, I think you need to be strong and flexible. I'm neither.Boards/Bindings:
2013 Spruce Sherpas w/Tyrolia Peak 11s
2023 Spruce Stingers w/Tyrolia Peak 11s
2015 RVL8 Blunt XLs w/Tyrolia Attack 13s
2020 RVL8 Sticky Icky Ickys w/Tyrolia SX 10s
Boots:
Salomon X-Pro 80
Past boards: Salomon Snowblades, Line MNPs 89 & 98 cm, Five-Os, Bullets, Jedis, Spruce 120s, LE 125s, Ospreys, Crossbows
Summit 110s, Nomads, Jades, RVL8 ALPs, BWPs, KTPs, Tanshos, Rockets, DLPs, Blunts, Condors, RCs, Revolts, Spliffs
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At 6' 5", if I have both hands down on the snow, something has gone horribly wrong. In the Poconos the hard part with this is finding a trail wide enough and uncongested enough to pull off the extreme carve. Most times you get locked in to a deep carve and end up running someone over.Boards:
2016 Spruce tuned Head Jr. Caddys - 131cm
2013 Spruce "CTS" 120s
2010 Spruce "Yellow/Red" 120s
2018 Spruce "CTS" Crossbows - 115cm
2016 RVL8 Spliffs - 109cm
2008 RVL8 Revolt "City" - 105cm
2017 RVL8 Sticky Icky Icky - 104cm
2011 Defiance Blades - 101cm
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I've had some pretty spectacular wipe-outs trying to carve like that and getting too far back on my heels.
It has felt like sweet poetry though when I've gotten close to getting it right. Hopefully this season will get it down K.T. style.Skis: Armada JJs, Armada Magic Js and Icelantic Keepers
Bindings: Marker Griffon, Look Pivot
Full Tilt Boots
Past: Revel8 Tanshos, KTPs, Revolts, DLPs, Condors; Spruce Raptors, 120s, Sherpas
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That's how I always like to carve... "If you aren't dragging two hands, it doesn't count"!
It is actually surprisingly easy to carve like that, its just a different style than you use for casual riding. First, you need a lot of speed. As SBruce pointed out, you need to find a steep wide slope that is free of obstacles. Basically, as you initiate the turn, you pretty much just sit down on your side, like you would if you were resting on the hill. This is where speed comes in. It lets you hold an edge an carve while you do this.
Once you are close to perpendicular to the fall line, you just stand up like you would getting off the ground, and get back to flat bases and prepare for the next turn. The physics compressing you into your carve make it easy to kind of "pop" back up. Your boards will be flexing pretty good at this point, and act kind of like mini trampolines to get you back up. Also, since this will be on a steep slope, the difference between "on your side" and standing shouldn't be too much.
The hardest part of riding like this is finding conditions and a slope that allow it. For this to work, you have to be going fast and carving hard, so the snow has to be smooth and soft enough to hold your weight through the carves.
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Originally posted by kirk View PostThat's how I always like to carve... "If you aren't dragging two hands, it doesn't count"!
It is actually surprisingly easy to carve like that, its just a different style than you use for casual riding. First, you need a lot of speed. As SBruce pointed out, you need to find a steep wide slope that is free of obstacles. Basically, as you initiate the turn, you pretty much just sit down on your side, like you would if you were resting on the hill. This is where speed comes in. It lets you hold an edge an carve while you do this.
Once you are close to perpendicular to the fall line, you just stand up like you would getting off the ground, and get back to flat bases and prepare for the next turn. The physics compressing you into your carve make it easy to kind of "pop" back up. Your boards will be flexing pretty good at this point, and act kind of like mini trampolines to get you back up. Also, since this will be on a steep slope, the difference between "on your side" and standing shouldn't be too much.
The hardest part of riding like this is finding conditions and a slope that allow it. For this to work, you have to be going fast and carving hard, so the snow has to be smooth and soft enough to hold your weight through the carves.
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Originally posted by shortydude View PostIf you lay your palm down flat do you ever jam your fingers digging into the snow? Would it be safer to set a fist down?
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