RVL8 Receptor Touring Binding

[Webby]

Gotcha. Thank you!


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[jjue]

Thank you! I will definitely get the voile straps for the toe bails. I was thinking of wrapping a gear tie under the wing nut then around the heel bail to keep it place. Basically a stronger version of the twisty ties you put around a bread bag.

I may see if can get a 12mm screw to work to lower the heel just a bit.


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I was saying 2 inch above the heel piece not the riser plate so you don;t need to lower any as you are 2 1/2 inch above riser plate , your height is just right

[Webby]

Thank you! I will definitely get the voile straps for the toe bails. I was thinking of wrapping a gear tie under the wing nut then around the heel bail to keep it place. Basically a stronger version of the twisty ties you put around a bread bag.

I may see if can get a 12mm screw to work to lower the heel just a bit.


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[jjue]

Nice work. I have climbed with the heel flipped over like that but couldn't figure a way of keeping it from flipping back. In terms of height of optimal heel lift, I like about 2 inches above the rear heel plate which is close to your heel lift. ps . there still may be a chance of the heel bale from flipping backwards when climbing , remember you are on an angled slope and lifting your boot above the level of the heel bale and it might flip backwards.

Remember if you use the front lever over the front of the boot for climbing , you do need to use the voile straps around the toe of your boot and the front lever to prevent the front lever from popping open on climbing . See the pictures at the beginning of this thread.

[Webby]

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[Webby]

jjue, thank you for your help in this post so far. I believe i have come up with an alternative that should work better with the receptors, and bring the heel lift down a bit. Hoping you can check it out and provide your thoughts. I will add pics in the next post. I flipped the boot so that the toe of the boot goes in the toe bail of the receptors, and used the telemark springs around the hell of the boot. I have flipped the heel bail of the receptor under the boot to use as a heel lift, and that is being held up by machine screw/wing nut on each side of the receptor base plate.

Around the machine screw is a rubber pad (real use as protective piece for the bottom of a chair, so it doesn't scrape the floors). The rubber piece essentially holds the machine screw and wing nut in place. In the pictures, I have the screw/wingnut/rubber piece simply sitting on the skiboard next to the binding, but I will likely attach both pieces to a single thin piece of plastic/rubber/metal so that it can be held in place either under the rubber binding pad, or between the rubber binding pad and the metal binding plate. I thought about gluing/screwing this directly into the board, but want to be able to move to other boards.

I’m pretty sure the heel bail will hold my weight, especially with the wingnuts to keep the sides of the bail from spreading outward.

Since I have never actually climbed with skis on, I’m not sure how high I want the heel lift to be, but with this setup, I can change the height by using longer/shorter machine screws. Right now I’m using 14mm, and probably can’t go any shorter. The only problem I see there is where the heel bail hit my boot. If I go even a little bit higher, it will hit the heel of the boot vs. the arch, and that will raise it quite a bit. With setup, the back of the heel is approximately 2.5 inches above the top of the binding base plate.

Thoughts?

[jjue]

Webby, Here is a link on how I used the Zero binding which is a clone of the Line FFpro binding to tour with the toe in the heel bale . The hardwire cartridge type telemark bindings provided more lateral support. When I used the softer cable spring telemark bindings I got some unwanted side to side play on climbing . I think this will be prevented by using the Voile strap under the springs and around the toe . After trying the way you did with the line ff pro front bale as a heel elevator , I settled on using the front bale behind the rear heel plate as detailed in the post. It did work pretty well.
https://forums.skiboardsonline.com/f...nd-trip-report

[Webby]

thank you jjue and noobie. luckily, i have plenty of time to tinker with this. i like the heel lift you added, which would allow me to use the toe bail along with the voile spring. i was also looking into attaching something to keep the toe bail in place under the boot. i suppose it wouldn't be that great of an idea to move the whole toe piece a few notches to decrease the lift, then move it back when transitioning...a bit too much work.

[jjue]

Sorry Webby, I see you are using my original method of reversing the boot in the binding and using the toe in the heel bale. This is possible in the Line Ff pro binding but not the receptors and you may be ok without the strap. However for extra security you still may wish to put a strap under your boot around the straps and over the top of the boot.

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[jjue]

Hi Webby, A few points . Remember to use the Voile strap around the front of the boot and the cables, otherwise the front bale will tend to pop loose from the boot on climbing . The Voile strap is really important., don't just use the cable without the strap. Yes I used line front bale as a heel elevator as you are doing with a line FF pro binding , Like Newbie2011 says it does lead to a pretty high heel elevation and would only be used on very steep climbing , not all the time but you can try that and see if it works for you It does hold the weight and there is no damage to the bale but it does tend to flop backwards again sometimes on climbing , also I have a larger boot then you and the front bale did not catch the front lever like it does with your smaller boot and so the bale moved around alot without anything really holding it in place.

[newbie2011]

Picture as described in previous post

Isn't that too steep an angle, wouldn't you be too much on your toes ? It also looks like the boot would have to always be in the same lean angle, forward lean would be prevented by the binding, looks like it's grabbing the front of the boot very tight, doesn't seem to allow any play.

I would also be concerned about too much weight on the toe binding piece, that joint under the middle of the boot seem to hold your whole weight, it probably cannot break but the arms of the toe bail might bent, don't you think ?

[Webby]

Picture as described in previous post


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[Webby]

jjue - this is excellent stuff! I have wanted to start exploring back country for a while, just haven't had the chance yet. I saw your original post using the Line bindings, and grabbed the voile telemark spring cables. I feel like I have a mod that may only work for others like me that have smaller feet (24.5 boots). I am curious as to your thoughts on this set up. With this setup, I flip the skiboard so that the toe of my boot fits into the heel bail of the receptor, and the toe bail is used as a heel lifter under the boot. Wondering if you have experienced any issues with the spring cables where your heel shifts left/right? The concern with the toe bail under foot with any shifting left/right is that a step down may miss the toe bail?

Again, I have not tried this, only put it together in the house, but looking at gathering the required equipment to put it to use next season. Thank you!

Will add a picture in next post.

[jjue]

Here is a shopping list and links for the Receptor touring modification . All easily purchased and used with your Receptor binding and skiboard with no drilling or custom modifications .
In this picture I show the completed touring modification. The crampon and crampon receiver in front of the toe is not necessary for most applications and a simple Skeats strap on mini crampon will usually be sufficient if crampons are needed.
IMG_20210117_095228942 by Jack Jue Jr, on Flickr
Understand that backcountry skiboarding is a high risk activity and I recommend you take avalanche courses , purchase additional avalanche gear such as beacons , shovels and probes and go with experienced backcountry riders. Also this a personal modification that you choose to use on your skiboards accepting all risks inherent with equipment failure and backcountry risks . This is not a manufacture recommended use of your binding or these binding parts and is only a binding modification I have done myself for my own use and am sharing with the skiboard public for their own education as to possible personal ways of modifying their bindings for backcountry use.

A pair of 20 inch Voile Straps https://www.voile.com/aluminum-buckle-straps.html
A pair of Sidethrow heel and Spring units https://www.voile.com/voile-telemark-binding-parts.html
58 mm climbing bales (this comes as a pair) https://www.voile.com/voile-3-pin-ca...ing-wires.html
Four M6 x1.0 25mm long machine screws and Four M6 flange nuts from the hardware store ( to attach heel elevator to receptor binding)
Climbing skins ( I recommend these- choose the width closest to width of your skiboard at the waist) https://skiskinsonline.com/shop-bsmp/og-ski-skin/
A set of Skeats strap on mini crampons http://www.skincleats.com/new-produc...tainless-steel

[jjue]

Here is a report testing the binding in the backcountry :
https://forums.skiboardsonline.com/f...ouring-binding
I do recommend keeping the side tension cable very tight. It is best to just remove the cable when going downhill rather then leaving it attached.
This is easy to do. Transitions are simple ,just remove voile strap, unsnap front lever, remove cables and then just snap back in as usual while leaving the skins attached to prevent the skiboard from moving around . Then skins are easily removed while you are snapped in.