RVL8 Receptor Touring Binding

[jjue]

Hi Webby, A few points . Remember to use the Voile strap around the front of the boot and the cables, otherwise the front bale will tend to pop loose from the boot on climbing . The Voile strap is really important., don't just use the cable without the strap. Yes I used line front bale as a heel elevator as you are doing with a line FF pro binding , Like Newbie2011 says it does lead to a pretty high heel elevation and would only be used on very steep climbing , not all the time but you can try that and see if it works for you It does hold the weight and there is no damage to the bale but it does tend to flop backwards again sometimes on climbing , also I have a larger boot then you and the front bale did not catch the front lever like it does with your smaller boot and so the bale moved around alot without anything really holding it in place.

[jjue]

Sorry Webby, I see you are using my original method of reversing the boot in the binding and using the toe in the heel bale. This is possible in the Line Ff pro binding but not the receptors and you may be ok without the strap. However for extra security you still may wish to put a strap under your boot around the straps and over the top of the boot.

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[Webby]

thank you jjue and noobie. luckily, i have plenty of time to tinker with this. i like the heel lift you added, which would allow me to use the toe bail along with the voile spring. i was also looking into attaching something to keep the toe bail in place under the boot. i suppose it wouldn't be that great of an idea to move the whole toe piece a few notches to decrease the lift, then move it back when transitioning...a bit too much work.

[jjue]

Webby, Here is a link on how I used the Zero binding which is a clone of the Line FFpro binding to tour with the toe in the heel bale . The hardwire cartridge type telemark bindings provided more lateral support. When I used the softer cable spring telemark bindings I got some unwanted side to side play on climbing . I think this will be prevented by using the Voile strap under the springs and around the toe . After trying the way you did with the line ff pro front bale as a heel elevator , I settled on using the front bale behind the rear heel plate as detailed in the post. It did work pretty well.
https://forums.skiboardsonline.com/f...nd-trip-report

[Webby]

jjue, thank you for your help in this post so far. I believe i have come up with an alternative that should work better with the receptors, and bring the heel lift down a bit. Hoping you can check it out and provide your thoughts. I will add pics in the next post. I flipped the boot so that the toe of the boot goes in the toe bail of the receptors, and used the telemark springs around the hell of the boot. I have flipped the heel bail of the receptor under the boot to use as a heel lift, and that is being held up by machine screw/wing nut on each side of the receptor base plate.

Around the machine screw is a rubber pad (real use as protective piece for the bottom of a chair, so it doesn't scrape the floors). The rubber piece essentially holds the machine screw and wing nut in place. In the pictures, I have the screw/wingnut/rubber piece simply sitting on the skiboard next to the binding, but I will likely attach both pieces to a single thin piece of plastic/rubber/metal so that it can be held in place either under the rubber binding pad, or between the rubber binding pad and the metal binding plate. I thought about gluing/screwing this directly into the board, but want to be able to move to other boards.

I’m pretty sure the heel bail will hold my weight, especially with the wingnuts to keep the sides of the bail from spreading outward.

Since I have never actually climbed with skis on, I’m not sure how high I want the heel lift to be, but with this setup, I can change the height by using longer/shorter machine screws. Right now I’m using 14mm, and probably can’t go any shorter. The only problem I see there is where the heel bail hit my boot. If I go even a little bit higher, it will hit the heel of the boot vs. the arch, and that will raise it quite a bit. With setup, the back of the heel is approximately 2.5 inches above the top of the binding base plate.

Thoughts?

[Webby]

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[jjue]

Nice work. I have climbed with the heel flipped over like that but couldn't figure a way of keeping it from flipping back. In terms of height of optimal heel lift, I like about 2 inches above the rear heel plate which is close to your heel lift. ps . there still may be a chance of the heel bale from flipping backwards when climbing , remember you are on an angled slope and lifting your boot above the level of the heel bale and it might flip backwards.

Remember if you use the front lever over the front of the boot for climbing , you do need to use the voile straps around the toe of your boot and the front lever to prevent the front lever from popping open on climbing . See the pictures at the beginning of this thread.

[Webby]

Thank you! I will definitely get the voile straps for the toe bails. I was thinking of wrapping a gear tie under the wing nut then around the heel bail to keep it place. Basically a stronger version of the twisty ties you put around a bread bag.

I may see if can get a 12mm screw to work to lower the heel just a bit.


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[jjue]

Thank you! I will definitely get the voile straps for the toe bails. I was thinking of wrapping a gear tie under the wing nut then around the heel bail to keep it place. Basically a stronger version of the twisty ties you put around a bread bag.

I may see if can get a 12mm screw to work to lower the heel just a bit.


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I was saying 2 inch above the heel piece not the riser plate so you don;t need to lower any as you are 2 1/2 inch above riser plate , your height is just right

[Webby]

Gotcha. Thank you!


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