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  • Skiboarding Issues....

    Ok so I was out on my new (to me) BWP boards this weekend (picked the boards up from a member here) I ran in to a bit of an issue that I am not sure what the solution is.

    Went to Marmot Basin.... about a 4 hr drive away.
    www.skimarmot.com

    First off the conditions weren't terrible but they weren't that great either a little ice here and there but mostly just packed snow with a trace dusting of powder.

    I ran in to problems when I picked up speed. The boards seemed to get quite unstable and would almost start to fishtail back and forth. This I could handle and If I could get up on edge things stabilized and handled quite nice When I was trying to slow down that's when the wheels fell off the wagon so to speak.

    If I tried to stop quickly the down hill board would start to fishtail back and forth very quickly and this was very tiring on the legs and made me feel not quite in control. The boards were quite fast and thus not feeling like I would be able to stop quickly if I had to was really disconcerting.

    What I am wondering is if this is just an issue with the conditions (things seemed better if there was a couple of inches of snow) or am I doing something wrong. Or is my board tuned incorrectly......

    Any input/comments would be appreciated

    JG

  • #2
    to me the issue seems to be not having the boards edged properly , on skiboards it is essential to go from edge to edge and have both boards carving at the proper edge angles at all times. , if skiboards are run flat they start fishtailing and act real squirrley , the problem is accentuated the faster you go if the edge angles are not proper . As you have found once you find the proper edge angle everything smooths out , the important thing is to HOLD that angle ..it is also very important to hold that angle as you come to a stop to prevent instability ., let the boards drop flat and things get squirrley in a hurry . . .. it is one of the things that drive skiers crazy when they first get on skiboards as skis like running flat and straight . also snowblades and narrower skiboards are a little easier to find the edge initally then our modern performance wide bodied skiboards

    in skis and on narrow snowblades it sometimes becomes a habit to smear or sliide the tails to come to a stop on a steep slope.. to this on a wide bodied skiboard and you will have the fishtailing issue you mention , it is important to carve to a stop . ie like hockey skates right on edge. . "hockey stop"

    this japanese video , is the best video , i have found that shows how to get proper edge angles , and carving drills ..

    Boards :
    Blunt Xl, DLP, Spliff, Condor, Rockered Condor , Slingshot, Sherpa, Icelantic Shaman
    Boots
    K2 BFC 100 Grip walk sole , Dynafit CR Radical AT boot, Ride Insano Snowboard boots
    Bindings:
    Zero Pro Non release Binding
    Modified Receptor Backcountry Bindings (Bill Version and Slow Version)
    Spruce Riser with Attack 14 GW /AT binding
    Custom Risers with Fritschi Backcountry Bindings (Jeff Singer version 1, Bill version)
    Rocker and Sbol Soft Boot Bindings.

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    • #3
      Getting the boards tuned and waxed up should help give you a fresh start. Once you know the equipment is all set and ready you can focus on the technique of your riding.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the video.....

        I found that I had the best results doing quick short turns to slow down. I was trying to "hockey stop" when things would go south but it is possible that I was a little flatter than I should have been.

        Last year was my first year on ski boards so I have a lot of ski habits to unlearn.
        The first half of the day was hell but as I got back in to the feel of the ski boards it got better.....My stopping was definitely better when there was more snow.

        The boards were freshly waxed but I didn't do anything about the edges....I think I will take them in for a tune up before I head out next time.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by jgoldsney View Post
          The boards were freshly waxed but I didn't do anything about the edges....I think I will take them in for a tune up before I head out next time.
          I suggest you keep the base angle of the edges at 0 degrees and tune the side edges to 90 or 89 degrees if you are riding all mountain and not park elements.
          sigpic


          Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

          Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

          Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


          Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

          Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

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          • #6
            Like everyone else has said if you run the boards flat on the snow they do get unstable, however it only takes a tiny angle for them to not get squirrely. What I mean is you dont need to do aggressive carves, just be turning slightly all the time, and they should be nice and stable.

            When it comes to stopping / controlling your speed you should just practice sliding sideways. I am going to link a video that is for riding rails, but at the 1min mark they practice sliding sideways down the mountain. That is what you need to do. Once you can slide sideways down the mountain all you have to do is change the angle to control how much speed you scrub off. Also you will start to get the feel for doing spins at the same time, infact you might find yourself going backwards a few times by accident, so practice on a green circle with no ice.

            Since the video is for riding rails they hop slightly. This hopping is not required for doing a hocky stop, watch it at the 1min mark and just practice going down the hill sideways.

            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zTCx...eature=related
            www.skiboardbindings.com GGO Co-Founder

            Check out a review of our bindings http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=13031 (Thanks Rob)

            My setup:
            DLP/Ktps (randomly switch)
            Condors, not rockered (powder/crap conditions board)
            GGO soft boot bindings
            Ride RFL Snowboard Boots

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            • #7
              Originally posted by slow View Post
              I suggest you keep the base angle of the edges at 0 degrees and tune the side edges to 90 or 89 degrees if you are riding all mountain and not park elements.
              I didn't even know you could tune edges (thats the park rider in me talking).

              Like Jack said, skiboards ride alot more like a snowboard than a ski in my opinion. The key with skiboarding/snowboarding is you pretty much always need to be on a least a little bit of an edge to ride stable and fast.

              Don't worry, the Revel8 boards can handle as fast as you feel you can push em with the proper riding technique.

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              • #8
                I really wish I spoke Japanese. Even though I've been skiboarding 10+ years now, I could probably pick up a few things from watching these videos. Some days my technique seems spot on, other days I feel like a noob.
                Boards/Bindings:
                2013 Spruce Sherpas w/Tyrolia Peak 11s
                2023 Spruce Stingers w/Tyrolia Peak 11s
                2015 RVL8 Blunt XLs w/Tyrolia Attack 13s
                2020 RVL8 Sticky Icky Ickys w/Tyrolia SX 10s


                Boots:
                Salomon X-Pro 80

                Past boards: Salomon Snowblades, Line MNPs 89 & 98 cm, Five-Os, Bullets, Jedis, Spruce 120s, LE 125s, Ospreys, Crossbows
                Summit 110s, Nomads, Jades, RVL8 ALPs, BWPs, KTPs, Tanshos, Rockets, DLPs, Blunts, Condors, RCs, Revolts, Spliffs

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by tyberesk View Post
                  I didn't even know you could tune edges (thats the park rider in me talking).

                  Like Jack said, skiboards ride alot more like a snowboard than a ski in my opinion. The key with skiboarding/snowboarding is you pretty much always need to be on a least a little bit of an edge to ride stable and fast.

                  Don't worry, the Revel8 boards can handle as fast as you feel you can push em with the proper riding technique.
                  I feel that as long as I'm riding with Revel8 Rumspringas, I'm not getting the *true* skiboard feel, as they are the narrowest skiboards on the market. I feel they're always on edge, and they ride a lot like the skis I started on.

                  It kind of makes me want to upgrade to something wider, but after reading this thread maybe I should be happy they're easy to get on edge?

                  SBOL Team III Rider

                  Skiboards
                     Revel8 2010 Revolt "Bullseye" 105cm
                     Revel8 2009 Rumspringa "MaryJane" 103cm
                     Revel8 2009 Tansho 90cm (BriGirl's)
                  Bindings
                     Spruce 2011 Pro Jr Risers & Head Release Bindings
                     Spruce 2010 Pro Lite Risers & Roxy Release Bindings (BriGirl's)
                  Other
                     Salomon 2009 Mission x4 boots
                     Sims T22 Omen helmet

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by bri_guy View Post
                    I feel they're always on edge, and they ride a lot like the skis I started on.
                    That's not necessarily a bad thing.
                    Boards/Bindings:
                    2013 Spruce Sherpas w/Tyrolia Peak 11s
                    2023 Spruce Stingers w/Tyrolia Peak 11s
                    2015 RVL8 Blunt XLs w/Tyrolia Attack 13s
                    2020 RVL8 Sticky Icky Ickys w/Tyrolia SX 10s


                    Boots:
                    Salomon X-Pro 80

                    Past boards: Salomon Snowblades, Line MNPs 89 & 98 cm, Five-Os, Bullets, Jedis, Spruce 120s, LE 125s, Ospreys, Crossbows
                    Summit 110s, Nomads, Jades, RVL8 ALPs, BWPs, KTPs, Tanshos, Rockets, DLPs, Blunts, Condors, RCs, Revolts, Spliffs

                    Comment

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