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  • Self Tuning and Waxing

    So I've been skiboarding for a while now but never did my own tuning (sharpening of edges and p-tex) or hotwaxing (usually have a free hotwax coupon). However, I want to start doing to on my own so I don't have to wait a week for my stuff to come back.

    I read up on it and it seems pretty straight forward, but I'm shopping around for an all around kit that includes all the tools necessary (files, wax, iron, vice grip, etc) and don't know which one to get. What do you guys suggest as an all around kit. I'm asking for one for Christmas.

    Once I get one I'll try and post a video tutorial on how to do your own tuning in the media section once I figure out what I'm doing. Don't worry, I'll start experimenting on my Salomon SB9 that I got in Middle School.
    Always on the brink of success or insanity!


  • #2
    Not that SnowJam one in the SBOL store. Uh ... here's one suggestion. The kit at the top of this page: http://tognar.com/kits_tool_wax_ski_snowboard.html, or at least something like it. See that iron? And see the SKS iron in the SBOL store? That iron is used by many different companies, including Swix, SKS, Dakine, etc. etc. etc. It is a good, basic iron. Wide enough for your boards and with decent temperature control. It falls about 20 degrees before the element kicks back on, at least in my experience. Other than that iron, a scraper, a nylon/horsehair brush (or SOS pad), and an edger are all you need ... though I find myself doing edgework so rarely, I usually leave it up to a shop. Oh yeah, and wax. A quick look around and I didn't see any kits with an edger included, but I'm sure they're out there.

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    • #3
      like koneco said, I don't do much with edges myself. I basically use my edger to keep the edge of my plastic scraper somewhat square/sharp to scrape the wax off easier.

      Waxing isn't rocket surgery, and it's a good way to save (and maybe make, if you offer your services to friends) some money.
      2012 Rockered Condors/Spruce Pro Sport///Revolt Cities/Snowjam Extreme2's

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      • #4
        Thanks for the responses. While I do like the professional tune I'm trying to get into doing it myself so that I don't have to wait a week for my skiboards to be back to me.

        One more question, what is the purpose of a base grind? Is it just to get all the old wax off and start new?
        Always on the brink of success or insanity!

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        • #5
          I definitely suggest you read the information and guides on that tognar site, it is one of the most comprehensive I have seen. Also try watching some videos on youtube to get the basic feel for what your doing.

          I started with a basic $50 kit, but found almost immediately that it really was barely adequate. In fact most all kits are lousy. Piece out one from sites like. Tognar.com racewax.com artechski.com

          For basic waxing I suggest:

          iron

          plastic scraper

          brush set: metal for removing old wax and opening up the structure, and nylon for less aggressive wax removal. I bought the 3 brush set that most sites sell.
          You can use a scrubby pad instead/in addition to the brushes.

          Wax of your choice

          Tuning:
          Do not get an adjustable edger. get a basic 89deg or 90deg guide. Probably get the 89 unless you think you are going to be on rails.

          Get a file and get some stones, diamond if you have the money. Unless your racing you wont need the really fine grit ones. Most of the basic sets just come with a file. A file is great for setting the initial edge, but way to aggressive for touch up.

          Base angle is a touchy subject most likely you want between zero and 1 deg base angle. The only way to have 0 is with a base grind. 1deg is normal for skis i believe, but not necessary for skiboards. Once you put an angle on your boards you would have to get them ground to remove it. I just bought a 1/2 deg base angle guide, but i havent used it yet.

          Revel8 boards are 90deg side, 0deg base from the factory.


          Base grind is used to create a flat base, create a new structure, and its often done after doing base repair like filing in gouges etc to create a nice flat surface.
          www.skiboardbindings.com GGO Co-Founder

          Check out a review of our bindings http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=13031 (Thanks Rob)

          My setup:
          DLP/Ktps (randomly switch)
          Condors, not rockered (powder/crap conditions board)
          GGO soft boot bindings
          Ride RFL Snowboard Boots

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          • #6
            I am the main tech at my ski shop so let me do a little IMO write up!

            Sharpening
            -Stick with 89 degree edging, any more is way to aggressive exspecially in the park
            -make sure you get a smooth file to de-burr the edge so it doesnt cut you
            -use the fine file to de-tune tip/tail so your skiboard is too "catchy" in and out of turns

            P-Tex
            -Make sure you use a metal 90 degree scraper so you dont damage your bases.
            -use a torch to light the p-tex the high temp helps it stick more to your bases
            -let them sit for atleast 15 minutes before you scrape to allow it to stick the best

            Waxing
            -#1 tip, dont spend money on a expensive iron, buy a 10$ one from kmart. its all the same.
            -if you see smoke when melting wax you are running it too hot
            -try to scrape up/down the ski, NOT back n forth
            -Buff them afterwards with some brillo or other spongy material

            3 Major things that ski shops can do that you cant.
            -They can baseweld which is serious plastic/base repair that will fill holes that go to the core
            -They can basegrind which helps fix 80% of the fine scratches and gets the bases in much better condition to wax
            -They can stone grind which greatly helps bases with waxing.

            I recommend getting atleast 1 professional tune a season unless you ride more than 20 times, then I'd say 1 per 20 days.

            If you spent the 100's of $ on your boards/skis/equip you owe it to yourself to take care of em right?

            I do a light basegrind and wax every 4 days i go out, and do a full tune every 10 days.

            -B
            sigpic

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            • #7
              Hey Branden,

              For base smoothing - what do you think about a belt sander? Was thinking of buying one.

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              • #8
                OP...

                I use this on the side edges.

                http://www.fktools-us.com/ProductDet...rtNumbNew=3104

                Use a flat file for the base edges. Then use a stone to finish it up.

                Careful with getting old wax in the stone...kinda wrecks it.

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                • #9
                  The belt sander I use also sprays water on the belt, you never want to use a dry belt

                  -B
                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    What is wrong with dry belt? De- temper the edges I guess?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by slackercruster View Post
                      What is wrong with dry belt? De- temper the edges I guess?
                      The heat generated also "smears" the base material.
                      sigpic


                      Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

                      Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

                      Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


                      Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

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