I can snowboard but am not as good as on Skiboards -- but the experience with snowboards got me to understand that they only use 2 strap bindings, they want and use the flex in the boot to binding for their benefit in turning edge to edge.
I got to like the flex feel on Skiboards and know that skiers on Chair 23 or The Wall near always tighten their boots before heading down -- tighter boots with release bindings= OK
But I know that no matter how loose my boot to binding feels on my Skiboards, they will never come loose or release - -- I am going down one way or the other without leaving my gear behind!!!
The straps won't all fail and the binding screws are all under my boots --they would need the inserts to all fail or the binding to break, meaning my foot likely breaks too.
The process of designing the Softboot System on this forum was a collaboration of great snow sport minds = Greco, Jack, and a few others on the riser. The need for a 3rd Strap was noted and might be a legal addition or a real required.
We will see this season. I made 2 great runs down Blacks in 2 ft of man made snow on my Line MNPs with only Flow bindings and NO 3RD STRAP! I loved the flex and the fast edge to edge turns.
So I will update at the end of the season. I still love my 3rd Strap on the RVL8 Playmaker SEI and have not tried without it... But I did see a video of a Skiboarder in Japan who had his 3rd straps set behind him in the park on rails and jumps. That gave me the idea to try it out. Now if I twist a knee, break a leg and end my 30 years of Skiboarding, So Be IT!!!
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Just found the Fastech design in a Head rear entry binding without mention of Fastech = Head RX-1 and RX-2
https://skipro.com/products/head_rx_...d_binding_2025
Now the RX - ONE sure looks a lot like my System MTN Ultra!!!
Now if Head would make the RX-ONE compliant with their Speed Disc mounting system!!!
On the journey to the Skiboard Holy Grail!!
Rear Entry, moveable board to board, any Soft Boot and some new snow!!!
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A little bit more digging on Fastech:
It is a rear entry snowboard binding design brand name for the SP, formally SnowPro - -an Austrian company with an Asian manufacturing facility. They also sell bindings named SP and Fastech.
https://www.boardsportsource.com/exp...fastec-system/
System MTN is just One of the binding sellers which have added a rear entry binding to their product line --including GNU. The System packaging said just the word Fastech.
This from another seller of bindings which pay SP a royalty to use the Fastech design:
SP bindings have a great reputation for technical innovation, performance and comfort - many top riders swear SP snowboard bindings are the best.
Stiff baseplates, comfortable, supportive straps and excellent buckles are the main ingredients to the SP snowboard bindings. The SP team of top international and UK riders push the technical details and a big range of graphics and colour options completes the look.
FASTEC is a step in system pioneered by SP that allows for super quick and easy entry/exit of your bindings. FASTEC combines the unrivaled features of a conventional strap-in binding with the simplicity of reclining highback systems. No need to mess around with both hands, fast and tight with one-handed operation.
So the rear entry systems made by SP, Niedecker and Flow are all sold by 3 original European companies.
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I did some digging on the internet as I had never heard of System, here in Europe.
It seems that System is a brand which belongs to Wiredsport, who are based in Portland, Oregon, USA.
I found a post in Snowboarding Forum from a representative of Wiredsport about the System MTN bindings. In the post, they say, "System is a Wiredsport Brand and the System MTN is one of our models. It uses the FASTEC rear entry System. ".
Baldybob - The CLEW step-in snowboard bindings are made in Germany, not Japan.
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Quick Reply from SoCal - A used small CLEW Step-In Binding for sale on Ebay for $295 and a high $556 for a new pair - -they seem to be made in Japan.
Sorry but I can get how many System MTN Ultra bindings for $136 delivered?
I chose the System MTN Ultra over the Nidecker for $399 with the CLEW a distant 3rd for use with any Snowboard boot - -the Burton is in its own class as a buy our special boot Step-In.
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The CLEW step-in snowboard bindings look like a good prospect for conversion to softboot bindings for skiboards IMHO.
They have a release handle at the top of the highbacks. The highback detaches together with the middle, ankle/heel ratchet strap and stays on the snowboard boot.
It would appear that the RVL8 Snowboard Binding Wings together with their supplied 3rd ratchet strap would fit onto the Clew binding's highbacks.
Long ago, I tried some softboots and snowboard bindings on my Blunts (assisted by valmorel, (engineering)) but realised that they weren't for me.
Yes, I had risers and third straps at the top of the snowboard binding's highbacks.
Since then, I've been interested in softboots but not intending to use them.
Nowadays, I couldn't use them anyway as I'm riding Spruce Longboards which need Spruce Risers with release bindings.
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I have 18 skiboard days on the Head Speed Disc System - - I did change boards from cambered KTPs to Rockered Condors to Line 90cm Jedi's on some days. This is my 2nd full year on soft boots. I get lots of hits on the set-up mostly by Snowboarders - -
I won't go back to ski boots and never to release bindings -- now to a few items from this topic:
#1: The 4 inch pad from Head with the bindings IS a Cheap Stomp Pad = used by Snowboarders under their rear loose foot.
#2: I just take my 9 in 1 tool out to pop open the Speed Disc Lever Turn it CCW and twist release the binding. Never takes more than 5 minutes per board to swap.
#3: I place my 3rd strap under the Boa on my Head Boots = use it as a lever to tighten --first I grab the boot and squeeze it to get the slack out as I crank the Boa. I have thought of making a Boa cover to flatten it so the 3rd strap can stay straight.
#4: At 74, the straps on conventional Snowboard Bindings are a pain - -next stop = Step In Bindings. I studied a few and decided not to try the Burton with its own boot. Pricey too
I talked to a couple of guys riding the Nidecker Step - In at $400 and then found the System Ultra MTN ($136 incl shipping and tax) from a guy who works in the Mt. Baldy rental shop.
Both can use any boot.
He showed me the original System MTN that he rode for 3 years on his snowboard. The Ultra is the latest with extra padding on the high-back. So I will detail this project when I receive the step in. The value of moving the binding pales in comparison to the ease of step-ins that are reviewed as being as fast to get into as release ski bindings. That might get me to stop for lunch rather than ride til I'm done.
I'll attach the wing and 3rd strap and use the riser and hardware from a used Sims set-up that I found a few years ago. No reaching down to thread and tighten the two lower straps
. Lift the rear high back and thread and tighten only the top strap.
I'll try to hit Mammoth or a back country trip before all melts - -May 5 was the last day at Mt. Baldy - -I was there with good late season snow on May 4 for a few runs on my Line Jedi's.
I hope to be able to use the Head system and 2-3 skiboards as demos for folks who want to try it out - -while I am riding my step-ins!!!!
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I left the top strap padding installed and intact. As long as they're pulled up to where the top of strap is at the top of the boot there's really not much pressure at all on the boa knob and the bottom wing of the padding probably makes a decent snow shield to kind of protect the knob.
I've also been having a really difficult time getting the frames on and off the discs. I solved that by cutting some HDPE (milk jug plastic) into a disc just slightly smaller than the diameter of the speed disc and put it between the disc and riser. That really thin spacer makes a night and day difference in mounting/unmounting the boot frames. I put a spacer under both speed discs.
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I may cut the bottom ears off the padding and reinstall them.
That could give more even pressure on the boot cuff materials.
That should put the padding even with the bottom of the top strap seen in the boa pic.
I'd probably still keep a thin washer under the thumbscrew to protect that material.
The top of top strap is currently angled up to the top of the boot cuff.
That creates that spacing at the bottom of the top strap by the boa dial.
Reinstalling that pad would help fill that gap.
If I cut the top ear off the padding, the top of the top strap would still ride right at the top of the boot cuff.
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Thanks for the tip about the arrows pointing inward toward each other. That worked out slick.
I removed the 4" wide pad from inside the top strap and used small washers as spacers to keep the screws from poking out inside. The washers on the stationary end of the top straps also helps distribute the force between a thumb screw and the strap leather which keeps it from bunching up when the thumbscrew is torqued down. The top strap now rides comfortably above the boa and doesn't put any stress on the knob.
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The board center arrows point to the inside of each skiboard. I don't use loctite. I put the 3rd strap over top of my boa dials. Not sure what the extra pad is for, it comes with the binding from Head. I hope this helps.
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
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The binding arrived today. That was crazy fast shipping, thanks.
First impression is WOW these are built like a tank.
They should hold up really well.
In the kit there's a 3"x5"x 1/8" piece of single sticky sided black foam.
It seems too soft of foam to be a snowboard stomp pad.
There's only one so I don't think it goes under the risers.
What is it?
The short OEM speed disc machine screws appear to have factory threadlock on them.
Should I use some blue Locktite on the supplied long bolts?
The speed disc's have a graphic on them that says "Board Center" with an arrow.
That would be fine if you wanted to ride skiboards side saddle like a snowboard
Pointing that graphic to the side seems to be more user friendly for us.
My Mondo 30 boots fit fine in these Large size bindings.
But, it will take some trial & error to get the straps dialed in.
Speaking of dials, I'm not sure how to orient the top strap in relation to the boa dial.
The boa dial is right in the natural path of the top strap.
If the strap goes over the boa dial it'll put pressure into the dial.
If the strap goes above the boa dial it will put pressure down on the dial.
The structural part of the strap is 2 & 3/8" wide, backed with a 4" wide foam pad.
The boa dial has a 1.5" diameter.
I could cut back or even remove that top strap 4" pad and
the smaller main strap should tuck in nicely above and behind the boa dial.
I'm not sure what the best way to go on that is.
I'm leaning toward removing that top strap 4" wide foam padding.
I've got these mocked up on a set of black & white Blunts.
I've got plenty of Phantom DPS to treat the Blunts if I decide to go with them.
Can ya tell, I'm looking forward to trying this new setup?
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