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  • How to do 88 degree edges

    Does anyone know how to do an 88 degree edge? I can't do it at work and the local shop only includes edging as part of a full board/ski tune up which runs a whopping $100.. If you know how to effectively do an 88 degree edge please post up with specific equipment, where you purchased it and your technique. I don't mind spending the money for honest tools but try not to quote $10,000 shop equipment. Good "home use" equipment and methods are what I'm going for. Thanks.
    "It's no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society" Jiddu Krisnamurti

    Spruce Sherpa - RVL8 KTP - RVL8 Blunt XL

  • #2
    If I understand your question correctly, it will take a 2 degree siide edge bevel guide, a file, and a set of diamond polishing stones. Check out the following site and their tip section.

    http://www.tognar.com/bevel_edge_bas...oard.html#side

    I use the SVST Pro Edge quide (1 degree), a pansar file (only the first time to set the angle), and then a set of diamond polishing stones (also for the touch ups thru the season). The tools will cost about $100.

    Hope this is what you are looking for.
    sigpic


    Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

    Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

    Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


    Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

    Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

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    • #3
      Slow,

      I took a look and do believe that is exactly what I am looking for. I was especially taken with the tool that simultaneously does base and side edges. Thank you very much.
      "It's no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society" Jiddu Krisnamurti

      Spruce Sherpa - RVL8 KTP - RVL8 Blunt XL

      Comment


      • #4
        Slow,

        I ordered the tool that does both base and edge at the same time and took the 1 of everything approach with the stones. $135 delivered. They were out of the stone redressing tool but I'll grab it here. I've seen them before. Not too painful and I've got plenty of experienced guys at work to help me overcome my ham-fisted, less than articulate tendencies. Well, the tendencies are also physical realities. I sort of have paws. Great for suction-cupping kids as they're falling.
        "It's no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society" Jiddu Krisnamurti

        Spruce Sherpa - RVL8 KTP - RVL8 Blunt XL

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by mahatma View Post
          Slow,

          I ordered the tool that does both base and edge at the same time and took the 1 of everything approach with the stones. $135 delivered. They were out of the stone redressing tool but I'll grab it here. I've seen them before. Not too painful and I've got plenty of experienced guys at work to help me overcome my ham-fisted, less than articulate tendencies. Well, the tendencies are also physical realities. I sort of have paws. Great for suction-cupping kids as they're falling.
          Mahatma,

          Some advice.... When you use the files, don't put too much pressure on them. The diamond files can get ruined very easy from too much pressure. It may not look like it's doing anything, but a light pressure on it will be enough to polish the edge. Same goes for the steel file. It will cut in only one direction and will wear out very quickly with too much pressure. Have fun with these toys.

          Wendell
          Now: 08 Sherpa's (2), Atomic 120's, 2013 125 Protos, 125 LEs, 2014 Sherpas, Osprey protos, 2015 Blunt XL's, 2016 Ospreys, Ethan Too twintip skis,2017 Shredfest One of kind Spliffs, 2018 Crossbows
          Bindings: Spruce Risers and Tyrolia LD12's
          Boots: Full Tilt Booters, Tecnica Agent 110
          History: Atomic shorty's, Sporten, Groove Taxis, Head 94's, ALPs, Spruce 120 Blue boards, Custom Lacroixs, Rocker Condors, 08 Summit 110's, Hagan offlimits 133's, Rossi 130's, 2011 Summit Marauders

          Comment


          • #6
            Mahatma,

            To add to Wendell's great advice, use a cutting oil or water to lube the diamond polishing stones. I have ruined many stones by getting lazy and not lubing and applying too much pressure.

            And remember to only use the file to generate the angle once, NOT to maintain it. That is what the polishing stones are for. I learned this the hard way when tuning my children's snowboards years ago. By the end of one season the boards had no edges left because of the repeated filing.

            Have fun tuning.
            sigpic


            Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

            Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

            Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


            Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

            Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

            Comment


            • #7
              Hey guys,

              Thanks for all the input. Very valuable stuff. Especially about stone/file care and not abusing the edges by over doing it. All taken to heart.

              I've got another question. At work today, all the ski and snowboard freaks (for once they agree) told me to get a 1 degree angle on the base edge as opposed to the 0 I ran last season. As a counter, Mr. Singer of Spruce recommends a 0 degree base angle. But, the super freaks at work were pretty clear that things like this often come down to personal preference but everyone agreed on at least 1 degree.

              What say you guys?
              "It's no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society" Jiddu Krisnamurti

              Spruce Sherpa - RVL8 KTP - RVL8 Blunt XL

              Comment


              • #8
                I use 0 base and 89 (or 1) degree side edge angle on all our skiboards and detune approximately 1 inch of length from the contact point at the tip and tail. I get good edge hold and they are not edgy. Remember that the "best" edge is required "under foot".

                Search Valmorel's posts on tuning the Lacroix 110 for details on the detuning.

                Some have tried a 1 degree base angle and were not happy with it due to edge hold. Search the posts for base angle and it should come up.

                BTW, I place a small center punch mark in the sidewall at the points to which I detune as a reference and then I make sure I dress the edges with the polishing stones up to that point.

                EDIT: The above suggestion is for all mountain riding. Terrain park riders may want to stay with the out of the box 0 base and 90 degree sidewall, or even go to a 1 degree base to avoid catching edges on rails.
                sigpic


                Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

                Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

                Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


                Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

                Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

                Comment


                • #9
                  Slow,

                  Good enough for me. 0 degree base it will stay. I'm an all mountain guy. Also, I had totally forgotten about Valmorel's excellent post about detuning. I'll indeed grab that post. Can't thank you enough.
                  "It's no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society" Jiddu Krisnamurti

                  Spruce Sherpa - RVL8 KTP - RVL8 Blunt XL

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mahatma View Post
                    Slow,

                    Good enough for me. 0 degree base it will stay. I'm an all mountain guy. Also, I had totally forgotten about Valmorel's excellent post about detuning. I'll indeed grab that post. Can't thank you enough.
                    I agree with Slow that the park and rail riders will like a base edge bevel. I didn't like the 1 degree on my Summit 110 at all due to the decrease in edge bite. On soft snow, it was fine, but on hardpack, it was anothe story. I had it removed with a base grind and am very satisfied now with the ride. This is really a matter of personal preferrence tough. Now one thing I would never do would be to put a 1 degree base bevel on my Spruce blue board. This board would be very treacherous on ice with a base bevel.

                    Wendell
                    Now: 08 Sherpa's (2), Atomic 120's, 2013 125 Protos, 125 LEs, 2014 Sherpas, Osprey protos, 2015 Blunt XL's, 2016 Ospreys, Ethan Too twintip skis,2017 Shredfest One of kind Spliffs, 2018 Crossbows
                    Bindings: Spruce Risers and Tyrolia LD12's
                    Boots: Full Tilt Booters, Tecnica Agent 110
                    History: Atomic shorty's, Sporten, Groove Taxis, Head 94's, ALPs, Spruce 120 Blue boards, Custom Lacroixs, Rocker Condors, 08 Summit 110's, Hagan offlimits 133's, Rossi 130's, 2011 Summit Marauders

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      wjeong,

                      My thanks for your input. That helps instill confidence. I most definitely want bit on hard pack and ice. Most definitely.
                      "It's no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society" Jiddu Krisnamurti

                      Spruce Sherpa - RVL8 KTP - RVL8 Blunt XL

                      Comment

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