Originally posted by ysb33r
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Waxing - what am I doing wrong ?
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Myself: RVL8 2011 KTP, Spruce 125 LE, RVL8 "Drooling Clouds" RCs, Spruce 2016 Osprey
Daughter: Twoowt Pirania 95cm; RVL8 2015 Blunt XL; RVL8 2021 SII; Spruce Crossbows
Past: RVL8 2010 Revolt Trees, RVL8 2014 Condor, RVL8 2009 ALPdors, Spruce 120 Yellow/Red
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I have found a brush to be a great tool as well. After scraping I always brush the bases. I purchased a Stage brush on Amazon. It is nylon in the middle with metal bristles around the outside. It has really made a difference in the amount of wax retained in between waxes. I usually toss on a quick wax (Swix XF snowboard wax that comes in a can) after the hot wax and then after every ride. I only have to do a hot wax maybe 2 times a season because of the use of the Swix wax. Honestly it makes a huge difference.Skis/Skiboards:
2019/2020 Lib Tech Backwards 166cm with Marker Squire 11 Bindings
2018 Spruce "Woody" Sherpa with Marker Griffon 13 DM Track
2018 "Dave's Face" DLPs w Snowjam Non Release Bindings
2016/2017 Rossignol Soul 7HD 164cm with with Marker Griffon 13 DM Track
2011 Spruce "Blue Board" Sherpa
20?? Spruce Sherpa "White Board" Prototypes still in plastic
Boots:
2012 Salomon SPK 90
2011 Salomon SPK Kaos 100
2008 Salomon SPK Kaos 95
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Originally posted by mvhoffman View PostI purchased a Stage brush on Amazon. It is nylon in the middle with metal bristles around the outside.
Myself: RVL8 2011 KTP, Spruce 125 LE, RVL8 "Drooling Clouds" RCs, Spruce 2016 Osprey
Daughter: Twoowt Pirania 95cm; RVL8 2015 Blunt XL; RVL8 2021 SII; Spruce Crossbows
Past: RVL8 2010 Revolt Trees, RVL8 2014 Condor, RVL8 2009 ALPdors, Spruce 120 Yellow/Red
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Originally posted by newbie2011 View PostExcellent pointer, thank you ! I've searched a few days ago for such a brush, but the Toko and Vola had very bad reviews, I've ordered now the Stage one. I have just a nylon one, and brushing did close to nothing... so I would go back to scrapping and brush again and scrap again until it looked somehow even ...Skis/Skiboards:
2019/2020 Lib Tech Backwards 166cm with Marker Squire 11 Bindings
2018 Spruce "Woody" Sherpa with Marker Griffon 13 DM Track
2018 "Dave's Face" DLPs w Snowjam Non Release Bindings
2016/2017 Rossignol Soul 7HD 164cm with with Marker Griffon 13 DM Track
2011 Spruce "Blue Board" Sherpa
20?? Spruce Sherpa "White Board" Prototypes still in plastic
Boots:
2012 Salomon SPK 90
2011 Salomon SPK Kaos 100
2008 Salomon SPK Kaos 95
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Originally posted by mvhoffman View PostDo yourself a favor and look for some quick wax (liquid/bar/spray doesn't matter) to put on directly after hot waxing and after/before riding.
Myself: RVL8 2011 KTP, Spruce 125 LE, RVL8 "Drooling Clouds" RCs, Spruce 2016 Osprey
Daughter: Twoowt Pirania 95cm; RVL8 2015 Blunt XL; RVL8 2021 SII; Spruce Crossbows
Past: RVL8 2010 Revolt Trees, RVL8 2014 Condor, RVL8 2009 ALPdors, Spruce 120 Yellow/Red
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so i use hertal hot sauce in a 1 oz. stick.....i will use less than half of a stick each time....skis are 125cm. 117 waist......dry 2 hours...i don't use a plastic scraper, i prefer a drywall type blade.....4 inch...keep a low angle and a bit of pressure and go at it.... it is also easier to clean off as you go....and as mentioned ..the brush....i use a small brass brush just a little bit bigger than a toothbrush...cheap dollar store item.....it works....just keep at it ...then i polish with a green scotch pad....
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Originally posted by newbie2011 View PostI've been waxing my boards for 4-5 years by now, first I've read several topics on the forum, watched some videos to learn how to do it. It's supposed to be a somehow simple operation but I feel that I'm never getting it quite right, so maybe someone can point my mistakes.
I've been using the Toko No Fluoro Hot Wax Blue. I melt and pour with the iron and flatten it up, but from this step already I wonder if I don't put too much wax on, because when scrapping it looks like some areas are too thick. I might also not scrap enough, because in some places there's still a blue tinted kind of thin layer. Which is still visible after a week of skiing, and now I see all kinds of gradient levels on the boards, which makes me think from the get go it was too much.
I'll attach two pics that show the state after six days of skiing( French Alps, from -5C to +5C air temperature if that's relevant), no extra wax being applied during those days.
They kinds look like crap now, I'm sure I'm doing something wrong here, anyone has any pointers to what that might be ?
Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk
Now: 08 Sherpa's (2), Atomic 120's, 2013 125 Protos, 125 LEs, 2014 Sherpas, Osprey protos, 2015 Blunt XL's, 2016 Ospreys, Ethan Too twintip skis,2017 Shredfest One of kind Spliffs, 2018 Crossbows
Bindings: Spruce Risers and Tyrolia LD12's
Boots: Full Tilt Booters, Tecnica Agent 110
History: Atomic shorty's, Sporten, Groove Taxis, Head 94's, ALPs, Spruce 120 Blue boards, Custom Lacroixs, Rocker Condors, 08 Summit 110's, Hagan offlimits 133's, Rossi 130's, 2011 Summit Marauders
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Originally posted by wjeong View PostThis season, I am still rubbing the wax on, but then applying the hot iron to the skiboards. I may rub on and iron in 2 two times if i want more wax. When I run my plastic scraper over the board, very little wax needs to be scraped off. Its all in the pores of the base. Try this. If works great. Don't get the iron too hot because the layer or wax is very thin.
Myself: RVL8 2011 KTP, Spruce 125 LE, RVL8 "Drooling Clouds" RCs, Spruce 2016 Osprey
Daughter: Twoowt Pirania 95cm; RVL8 2015 Blunt XL; RVL8 2021 SII; Spruce Crossbows
Past: RVL8 2010 Revolt Trees, RVL8 2014 Condor, RVL8 2009 ALPdors, Spruce 120 Yellow/Red
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I’ve turned to YouTube to see how the pros do it. And then I take some of their advice and make it my own.
I have bought a roto brush to help with time. One thing I did like was a quick rub of the wax to the iron the right away to the board , like the dry rub style. I then se the iron and spread (melt ) the wax evenly. Let it sit for quite a while before I scrape and the roto brush , and sometime cork smooth.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I'm just the FNG--== ****ing new guy
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FedEx managed somehow to mess up with the delivery of the brass brush, so I had to do without that... I've tried to apply all the advice I've received here. The hardest part was to thoroughly scrap the abundance of blue Toko wax :-) don't know if it shows in the picture, but to me the result looks much better than my other times.
I found the cork quite useful as the last step, not only to smooth and polish, but it was also kind of pointing out which areas still had a bit of extra wax that needed more scrapping.
On a side note, judging by the required iron temperature, looks like "all temperature" wax means slightly different for different producers: Hertel temp is slightly below 90C, Vola is 100 and Toko All-In-One is 130C. Does this have any incidence on how fast the wax will wear off the boards during usage ? I don't think the boards get anywhere that close during riding, it shouldn't...
I'll keep a closer eye on that next time, but just curios, what's your experience with Hertel, on average how many days it usually lasts ?Myself: RVL8 2011 KTP, Spruce 125 LE, RVL8 "Drooling Clouds" RCs, Spruce 2016 Osprey
Daughter: Twoowt Pirania 95cm; RVL8 2015 Blunt XL; RVL8 2021 SII; Spruce Crossbows
Past: RVL8 2010 Revolt Trees, RVL8 2014 Condor, RVL8 2009 ALPdors, Spruce 120 Yellow/Red
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I use a metal edged paint scraper when I wax my boards. Just make sure that the scraper is wider than your boards to prevent the edges from digging in. I also scrape the wax whilst it is still hot and soft, this way you are just left with a thin layer to brush. This method saves so much time and effort. I have never understood people trying to scrape off layers thick, hard,cold wax with a blunt plastic scraper. I have done this for years and my bases look immaculate.
Or..............don't wax, but that's another storyJust these, nothing else !
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A nice big box works. Lay the ski upside down and scrape the wax into the box. After several jobs just get a new box and set the old box out to trash or recycle. The hertal hot sauce i use will last two ski sessions. Right at five hours each trip. Right now i have more hot sauce on the way, but i did have to use some zum wax and i have used some oneballjay f-1. Have to say hertal is the best with the zum wax doing a great job. The oneballjay seemed ordinary. i can tell a difference in glide with the hertal. So i'm using the oneball for a hot clean, and will use for a storage wax this summer. Last thing is the hertal ski wipes in single packets.....best thing since sliced bread...One pack would do multiple skiboards, The product really works. Now i don't work for hertal just a PSA for everybody. I just finished a hot clean and scrape and a zum wax for this next outing, and boy what a chore.
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Originally posted by buckeye View PostA nice big box works. Lay the ski upside down and scrape the wax into the box. After several jobs just get a new box and set the old box out to trash or recycle.
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last thing is the hertal ski wipes in single packets.....best thing since sliced bread...One pack would do multiple skiboards, The product really works.
Thumbs up on the Hertel cleaner as well, I'm currently doing it like you, use some "disposable" wax for cleaning and put Hertel at the end, but I'll get some wipes next time I place an order, thanksMyself: RVL8 2011 KTP, Spruce 125 LE, RVL8 "Drooling Clouds" RCs, Spruce 2016 Osprey
Daughter: Twoowt Pirania 95cm; RVL8 2015 Blunt XL; RVL8 2021 SII; Spruce Crossbows
Past: RVL8 2010 Revolt Trees, RVL8 2014 Condor, RVL8 2009 ALPdors, Spruce 120 Yellow/Red
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