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Waxing - what am I doing wrong ?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by ysb33r View Post
    I know what you are referring to and I would not use that.
    You're right, I'll get one of those reusable ones, they come in dark colors so it's so much easier to see sticky wax bits. Thank you !

    RVL8 Blunt XL
    Spruce Raptors 125LE
    Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
    Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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    • #17
      I have found a brush to be a great tool as well. After scraping I always brush the bases. I purchased a Stage brush on Amazon. It is nylon in the middle with metal bristles around the outside. It has really made a difference in the amount of wax retained in between waxes. I usually toss on a quick wax (Swix XF snowboard wax that comes in a can) after the hot wax and then after every ride. I only have to do a hot wax maybe 2 times a season because of the use of the Swix wax. Honestly it makes a huge difference.
      2018 "Dave's Face" DLPs
      2017 Sticky Icky Icky
      2016 Blunt XL
      2016 "B.Lyfe" Revolt

      Spruce Riser w Tyrolia Attack 13
      Line FF Pro Gold Non-release

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      • #18
        Originally posted by mvhoffman View Post
        I purchased a Stage brush on Amazon. It is nylon in the middle with metal bristles around the outside.
        Excellent pointer, thank you ! I've searched a few days ago for such a brush, but the Toko and Vola had very bad reviews, I've ordered now the Stage one. I have just a nylon one, and brushing did close to nothing... so I would go back to scrapping and brush again and scrap again until it looked somehow even ...

        RVL8 Blunt XL
        Spruce Raptors 125LE
        Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
        Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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        • #19
          Originally posted by newbie2011 View Post
          Excellent pointer, thank you ! I've searched a few days ago for such a brush, but the Toko and Vola had very bad reviews, I've ordered now the Stage one. I have just a nylon one, and brushing did close to nothing... so I would go back to scrapping and brush again and scrap again until it looked somehow even ...
          I'm sure that there are others that have tricks as well but I make sure that I really scrape good and then brush. The brush really seems to even it out. I do not get the buildup since buying one of the brushes. There are other and better brushes out there i'm sure but the Stage one is cheap and the best of both worlds. Do yourself a favor and look for some quick wax (liquid/bar/spray doesn't matter) to put on directly after hot waxing and after/before riding. It really seems to make a difference for me with base wax retention.
          2018 "Dave's Face" DLPs
          2017 Sticky Icky Icky
          2016 Blunt XL
          2016 "B.Lyfe" Revolt

          Spruce Riser w Tyrolia Attack 13
          Line FF Pro Gold Non-release

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          • #20
            Originally posted by mvhoffman View Post
            Do yourself a favor and look for some quick wax (liquid/bar/spray doesn't matter) to put on directly after hot waxing and after/before riding.
            I had one of those, but never got to use it on my boards, like you've seen in the pictures, I had so much wax on, that it wouldn't go away, not even after 6 days :-)

            RVL8 Blunt XL
            Spruce Raptors 125LE
            Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
            Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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            • #21
              so i use hertal hot sauce in a 1 oz. stick.....i will use less than half of a stick each time....skis are 125cm. 117 waist......dry 2 hours...i don't use a plastic scraper, i prefer a drywall type blade.....4 inch...keep a low angle and a bit of pressure and go at it.... it is also easier to clean off as you go....and as mentioned ..the brush....i use a small brass brush just a little bit bigger than a toothbrush...cheap dollar store item.....it works....just keep at it ...then i polish with a green scotch pad....

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              • #22
                Originally posted by newbie2011 View Post
                I've been waxing my boards for 4-5 years by now, first I've read several topics on the forum, watched some videos to learn how to do it. It's supposed to be a somehow simple operation but I feel that I'm never getting it quite right, so maybe someone can point my mistakes.

                I've been using the Toko No Fluoro Hot Wax Blue. I melt and pour with the iron and flatten it up, but from this step already I wonder if I don't put too much wax on, because when scrapping it looks like some areas are too thick. I might also not scrap enough, because in some places there's still a blue tinted kind of thin layer. Which is still visible after a week of skiing, and now I see all kinds of gradient levels on the boards, which makes me think from the get go it was too much.

                I'll attach two pics that show the state after six days of skiing( French Alps, from -5C to +5C air temperature if that's relevant), no extra wax being applied during those days.

                They kinds look like crap now, I'm sure I'm doing something wrong here, anyone has any pointers to what that might be ?

                Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20200106_151427.jpg Views:	1 Size:	3.81 MB ID:	261326Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20200106_151606.jpg Views:	1 Size:	3.39 MB ID:	261328
                I no longer drip wax all over my skiboards and they scrape to wax them. It's a big waste of wax. Prior seasons, I've been rubbing wax on and then corking it in with great results. This season, I am still rubbing the wax on, but then applying the hot iron to the skiboards. I may rub on and iron in 2 two times if i want more wax. When I run my plastic scraper over the board, very little wax needs to be scraped off. Its all in the pores of the base. Try this. If works great. Don't get the iron too hot because the layer or wax is very thin.

                Sent from my P027 using Tapatalk

                Now: 08 Sherpa's (2), Atomic 120's, 2013 125 Protos, 125 LEs, 2014 Sherpas, Osprey protos, 2015 Blunt XL's, 2016 Ospreys, Ethan Too twintip skis,2017 Shredfest One of kind Spliffs, 2018 Crossbows
                Bindings: Spruce Risers and Tyrolia LD12's
                Boots: Full Tilt Booters, Tecnica Agent 110
                History: Atomic shorty's, Sporten, Groove Taxis, Head 94's, ALPs, Spruce 120 Blue boards, Custom Lacroixs, Rocker Condors, 08 Summit 110's, Hagan offlimits 133's, Rossi 130's, 2011 Summit Marauders

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by wjeong View Post
                  This season, I am still rubbing the wax on, but then applying the hot iron to the skiboards. I may rub on and iron in 2 two times if i want more wax. When I run my plastic scraper over the board, very little wax needs to be scraped off. Its all in the pores of the base. Try this. If works great. Don't get the iron too hot because the layer or wax is very thin.
                  That's an interesting alternative, makes sense, as long as the rubbing applied wax everywhere, the result should be the same... and there's practically no chance to get too much wax on, as I was getting... I'll give it a try, thanks !

                  RVL8 Blunt XL
                  Spruce Raptors 125LE
                  Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
                  Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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                  • #24
                    Iíve turned to YouTube to see how the pros do it. And then I take some of their advice and make it my own.
                    I have bought a roto brush to help with time. One thing I did like was a quick rub of the wax to the iron the right away to the board , like the dry rub style. I then se the iron and spread (melt ) the wax evenly. Let it sit for quite a while before I scrape and the roto brush , and sometime cork smooth.


                    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                    I'm just the FNG--== ****ing new guy

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                    • #25
                      FedEx managed somehow to mess up with the delivery of the brass brush, so I had to do without that... I've tried to apply all the advice I've received here. The hardest part was to thoroughly scrap the abundance of blue Toko wax :-) don't know if it shows in the picture, but to me the result looks much better than my other times.

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20200111_202540.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.39 MB ID:	261414

                      I found the cork quite useful as the last step, not only to smooth and polish, but it was also kind of pointing out which areas still had a bit of extra wax that needed more scrapping.

                      On a side note, judging by the required iron temperature, looks like "all temperature" wax means slightly different for different producers: Hertel temp is slightly below 90C, Vola is 100 and Toko All-In-One is 130C. Does this have any incidence on how fast the wax will wear off the boards during usage ? I don't think the boards get anywhere that close during riding, it shouldn't...

                      I'll keep a closer eye on that next time, but just curios, what's your experience with Hertel, on average how many days it usually lasts ?
                      RVL8 Blunt XL
                      Spruce Raptors 125LE
                      Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
                      Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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                      • #26
                        I use a metal edged paint scraper when I wax my boards. Just make sure that the scraper is wider than your boards to prevent the edges from digging in. I also scrape the wax whilst it is still hot and soft, this way you are just left with a thin layer to brush. This method saves so much time and effort. I have never understood people trying to scrape off layers thick, hard,cold wax with a blunt plastic scraper. I have done this for years and my bases look immaculate.

                        Or..............don't wax, but that's another story
                        Just these, nothing else !

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                        • #27
                          A nice big box works. Lay the ski upside down and scrape the wax into the box. After several jobs just get a new box and set the old box out to trash or recycle. The hertal hot sauce i use will last two ski sessions. Right at five hours each trip. Right now i have more hot sauce on the way, but i did have to use some zum wax and i have used some oneballjay f-1. Have to say hertal is the best with the zum wax doing a great job. The oneballjay seemed ordinary. i can tell a difference in glide with the hertal. So i'm using the oneball for a hot clean, and will use for a storage wax this summer. Last thing is the hertal ski wipes in single packets.....best thing since sliced bread...One pack would do multiple skiboards, The product really works. Now i don't work for hertal just a PSA for everybody. I just finished a hot clean and scrape and a zum wax for this next outing, and boy what a chore.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by buckeye View Post
                            A nice big box works. Lay the ski upside down and scrape the wax into the box. After several jobs just get a new box and set the old box out to trash or recycle.
                            ...
                            last thing is the hertal ski wipes in single packets.....best thing since sliced bread...One pack would do multiple skiboards, The product really works.
                            I like the idea of the box, thank you ! I have already a tarp but the most tedious part remains the vacuuming at the end, the box should get the most of the wax and make life easier. I have to wax 5 pairs of boards one of these days, I'll make sure to try your suggestion !

                            Thumbs up on the Hertel cleaner as well, I'm currently doing it like you, use some "disposable" wax for cleaning and put Hertel at the end, but I'll get some wipes next time I place an order, thanks
                            RVL8 Blunt XL
                            Spruce Raptors 125LE
                            Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
                            Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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