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  • Waxing - what am I doing wrong ?

    I've been waxing my boards for 4-5 years by now, first I've read several topics on the forum, watched some videos to learn how to do it. It's supposed to be a somehow simple operation but I feel that I'm never getting it quite right, so maybe someone can point my mistakes.

    I've been using the Toko No Fluoro Hot Wax Blue. I melt and pour with the iron and flatten it up, but from this step already I wonder if I don't put too much wax on, because when scrapping it looks like some areas are too thick. I might also not scrap enough, because in some places there's still a blue tinted kind of thin layer. Which is still visible after a week of skiing, and now I see all kinds of gradient levels on the boards, which makes me think from the get go it was too much.

    I'll attach two pics that show the state after six days of skiing( French Alps, from -5C to +5C air temperature if that's relevant), no extra wax being applied during those days.

    They kinds look like crap now, I'm sure I'm doing something wrong here, anyone has any pointers to what that might be ?

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20200106_151427.jpg Views:	1 Size:	3.81 MB ID:	261326Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20200106_151606.jpg Views:	1 Size:	3.39 MB ID:	261328
    Attached Files
    RVL8 Blunt XL
    Spruce Raptors 125LE
    Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
    Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

  • #2
    I think this is mostly a symptom of the hardness of this particular wax. I've experienced this as well, but only ever when using cold temp wax. Cold temp wax seems to harden a lot more than other waxes, making it more difficult to spread evenly and scrape.

    If you're not experiencing any sticking or trouble gliding, it probably isn't an issue even though it doesn't look great. To even it out, you could try taking a scotch-brite pad to it, essentially sanding down some of that wax.

    If you're looking for a wax that's easier to work with, I've had great luck with Hertel all temp wax. It seems to last really well, work in all conditions and is very easy to spread and scrape.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Courtney View Post
      I think this is mostly a symptom of the hardness of this particular wax. I've experienced this as well, but only ever when using cold temp wax. Cold temp wax seems to harden a lot more than other waxes, making it more difficult to spread evenly and scrape.
      Oh, I see, makes sense, now that you've mentioned it the wax I have is for -10C/-30C , which I haven't noticed before ...

      I don't have problems on the slopes, but waxing is quite a struggle, despite scrapping, brushing, cork polishing ... the result always seemed not what it would be supposed to look like, and the way it looks after snow time, that creaky blue-tinted zone felt definitely wrong.

      I've read before the Hertel recommendations on the forum, but back then it was complicated to get some to Europe and Toko seemed like a reasonable alternative. Today I could order some Hertel from Amazon, now looking forward to trying it out

      Thanks a lot Courtney !
      RVL8 Blunt XL
      Spruce Raptors 125LE
      Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
      Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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      • #4
        Awesome, glad you were able to find a source! I think you'll find it much easier to work with and you'll be able to get a nicer looking wax with less time and effort.

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        • #5
          Newbie, what temps do you experience when ski boarding?

          I experience cold temps and use -5 to -10 C red wax, never anything for colder temps. Keep in mind that the wax temp refers to the temp of the snow not that of the air.

          Courtney’s recommendation is a good one.


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          • #6
            I'm a lazy waxer, but I do a much shorter version of the typical wax job. I just rub the wax stick (as is) on the bases to apply a thin layer, then use a heat gun to melt it a bit before buffing it with a scrap piece of cloth. I sometimes have to touch up areas that didn't get enough wax on the first application. It's quick, saves wax and doesn't require scraping, but won't last as long as a proper hot wax. The terrain and snow conditions I ride don't really require much in the way of wax, other than the cat tracks (saves a bit of skating on the flat parts).

            However, this technique might help with the thick spots; use the heat gun on the thicker bits and then buff it out. Just be careful to not over-heat your bases... keep the heat gun moving and just use enough heat to re-melt the wax. If the base material starts to lighten, you've heated them too much and it's probably bad for the board.
            Make Skiboarding Sexy Again

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            • #7
              Originally posted by slow View Post
              Newbie, what temps do you experience when ski boarding?

              I experience cold temps and use -5 to -10 C red wax, never anything for colder temps.
              Somewhere in the search for an alternative for Hertel I think I've lost track of the fact that that one was "all temperature" wax. I'm sure some of Toko were as well, but looking through reviews, prices, availability, looks like I've got myself sidetracked. For sure I was not aiming for that snow temperature range. Air temperature in the Alps when I ski is usually give or take between -5C to 5C. The one mentioned on the Toko is -9/-30C... Certainly not what I was looking for, my mistake, I'll check out the red wax that you mention, thank you slow
              RVL8 Blunt XL
              Spruce Raptors 125LE
              Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
              Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Steeps View Post
                I'm a lazy waxer, but I do a much shorter version of the typical wax job.
                I have some "pocket" liquid Toko rub-on wax for quick application, but usually I don't need it, I have an iron and was doing the standard procedure, and the upside was that it was lasting for the whole week, as you can see, there's still wax left in different layers, actually too many layers

                How do I get rid of what I have on the boards now ? Do I need a specific de-waxing product, or putting some cheap wax on top and properly scrapping would be better ? In two applications I suppose - the first one I probably would have to scrap a LOT and the second application would be the one to stay on the board, using Hertel this time
                RVL8 Blunt XL
                Spruce Raptors 125LE
                Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
                Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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                • #9
                  You may be able to even out the thicker old wax by warming it up with your iron, then applying a layer of cheap wax (or even the cold temp wax) on top of it and scraping while it's still warm. Be careful not to burn yourself - I'd definitely wear gloves when doing this.

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                  • #10
                    Ordered locally some Vola Universal wax for that, I'll have everything by the end of the week. Thank you for the tip Courtney, I'll put some gloves on !

                    How do you guys deal with the mess made after scrapping ?!? I don't have a shed/garage/basement so every time it's a struggle afterwards to clean up the kitchen, all those small wax bits are sticking everywhere, even vacuuming them is not easy ... Any miracle solution ?
                    RVL8 Blunt XL
                    Spruce Raptors 125LE
                    Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
                    Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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                    • #11
                      are you cleaning your base before you wax to remove all the excess old wax and debris? are you scraping ALL of the left over wax after ironing? there's lots of left over wax from those photos. you not trying to put a layer of wax on the bases, the point of waxing is to fill micro hairs and scratches on the base to make it hydrophobic. also, clean your iron, and iron in straight tip to tail passes, no circles or arcs.
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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Roussel View Post
                        are you cleaning your base before you wax to remove all the excess old wax and debris? are you scraping ALL of the left over wax after ironing? there's lots of left over wax from those photos.
                        The bases were ok before, all that excess of wax was of my own doing, that's one of my errors, I was definitely not scrapping enough...

                        Originally posted by Roussel View Post
                        you not trying to put a layer of wax on the bases, the point of waxing is to fill micro hairs and scratches on the base to make it hydrophobic.
                        The wax I was using was quite thick, there were sometimes small patches that would kind of peel off when I was scrapping, leaving the base like it was before, so I was a bit confused about how much scrapping should I do ... But you're right Roussel , that's a good explanation, thank you !
                        RVL8 Blunt XL
                        Spruce Raptors 125LE
                        Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
                        Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by newbie2011 View Post
                          How do you guys deal with the mess made after scrapping ?!? I don't have a shed/garage/basement so every time it's a struggle afterwards to clean up the kitchen, all those small wax bits are sticking everywhere, even vacuuming them is not easy ... Any miracle solution ?
                          I have a large sheet of tarp-like plastic that I layed out and took care to only work within the limits of the sheet, even when scraping. Then at at the end the sheet is grabbed at the end and the dry wax dumped in the bin. I also then too some care to dislodge any sticky pieces for the sheet. When I lived in the UK I sometimes did the waxing outside of the kitchen door if it wasn't raining, windy or ash from the odd Icelandic volcano.
                          Current: '20 Spruce Slingshot 119s, '20 Spruce Crossbow 115s, '18 Spruce Osprey 103s (touring)
                          Also: '11 Allz Elaila 94s, '12 Rockered Condor 110s, '15 Spruce Osprey 132s (touring), '18 Spruce Crossbow 115s
                          Previous: Gaspo Hot Wax 84s, Mantrax 98s, Summit Nomad 99s, Spruce Yellow 120s, Eman Uprise 104s

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by ysb33r View Post
                            I have a large sheet of tarp-like plastic that I layed out and took care to only work within the limits of the sheet, even when scraping. Then at at the end the sheet is grabbed at the end and the dry wax dumped in the bin. I also then too some care to dislodge any sticky pieces for the sheet.
                            How easy is to clean it from those sticky bits ? I was considering such a plastic tarp versus those thin, transparent plastic, more film like protections, usually used for paint jobs, those come in rolls of 50m or such. The downside it's every sheet would be for one time usage, a reusable tarp sounds better.

                            RVL8 Blunt XL
                            Spruce Raptors 125LE
                            Revel8 2010 Revolt Trees 105cm
                            Spruce Yellow/Red 120s

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by newbie2011 View Post
                              How easy is to clean it from those sticky bits ? I was considering such a plastic tarp versus those thin, transparent plastic, more film like protections, usually used for paint jobs, those come in rolls of 50m or such. The downside it's every sheet would be for one time usage, a reusable tarp sounds better.
                              I know what you are referring to and I would not use that. Definitely one time use. A cheap ground sheet or an old plastic shower curtain. It will develop holes eventually, but just duck-tape them.

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                              Current: '20 Spruce Slingshot 119s, '20 Spruce Crossbow 115s, '18 Spruce Osprey 103s (touring)
                              Also: '11 Allz Elaila 94s, '12 Rockered Condor 110s, '15 Spruce Osprey 132s (touring), '18 Spruce Crossbow 115s
                              Previous: Gaspo Hot Wax 84s, Mantrax 98s, Summit Nomad 99s, Spruce Yellow 120s, Eman Uprise 104s

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