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  • Need Help Buying New Ski Boards

    Hi Guys,

    Just joined the forum and wanted your input. I currently own really old 90 cm Line Ski Boards. I got them like 11 years ago when I decided to transition from Skiing. I'm an intermediate - advanced level skier / ski boarder I guess? I haven't been on the mountain in like 8 years and just moved back to the east coast where I can finally hit the slopes again.

    I went last year for the first time and I had a hard time carving aggressively and noticed a considerable amount of stopping distance difference between me and my friends on skis.

    I wanted to upgrade but didn't know what attributes I should be looking for. I'm 5' 7" 145lbs.

    What is the difference between shorter and longer ski board lengths when you ride?

    What is the difference between skinnier and fatter ski boards when you ride?

    And what model skiboard do you guys recommend best for carving and stopping?

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Originally posted by sunburn731 View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Just joined the forum and wanted your input. I currently own really old 90 cm Line Ski Boards. I got them like 11 years ago when I decided to transition from Skiing. I'm an intermediate - advanced level skier / ski boarder I guess? I haven't been on the mountain in like 8 years and just moved back to the east coast where I can finally hit the slopes again.

    I went last year for the first time and I had a hard time carving aggressively and noticed a considerable amount of stopping distance difference between me and my friends on skis.

    I wanted to upgrade but didn't know what attributes I should be looking for. I'm 5' 7" 145lbs.

    What is the difference between shorter and longer ski board lengths when you ride?

    The longer you go the more stable, easier at speed. They also way more and are less manuverable

    What is the difference between skinnier and fatter ski boards when you ride?

    Fatter boards have increased surface area and bust through chop better. Some people find them slower to transition from edge to edge, I personally don't.

    And what model skiboard do you guys recommend best for carving and stopping?

    KTPs have a really short turning radius and for me, the most fun to carve. But they all carve great, even the ones you already have should carve great. They all stop great, are you trying to snowplow/pizza wedge or hockey stop? Sounds like your current boards are in very poor condition, or you are rusty.

    Thanks!
    Welcome to the forum
    www.skiboardbindings.com GGO Co-Founder

    Check out a review of our bindings http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=13031 (Thanks Rob)

    My setup:
    DLP/Ktps (randomly switch)
    Condors, not rockered (powder/crap conditions board)
    GGO soft boot bindings
    Ride RFL Snowboard Boots

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by bee View Post
      Welcome to the forum
      Thanks for your feedback. I may be rusty and my current skiboards may not be in the best condition....but I'm pretty confident going down blue's and blacks "hockey stopping". What I noticed was a lot of vibrations when trying to stop and had to dig really hard. My legs got tired quickly because of that...all my friends on ski's and snow boards seem to put in less effort stopping.

      I was looking at the 105cm RVL8 Revolt's. What do you think of those? (Seem to be popular on the poll) and do you think I'm too short for 105's? I'm 5'7 and I ride with fixed ski boots.

      Also is there an advantage to asymmetrical vs symmetrical board design?

      Comment


      • #4
        Symmetrical boards are

        I do not know of any good quality boards in this size range that aren't symmetrical.

        You can't go wrong with revolts.

        On the stopping thing, What I do is just slide sideways. Like when people, who are better then me, are in the terrain park sliding down a rail.
        Practice sliding sideways NOT stopping, just scrubbing a little speed while sliding sideways. That shouldn't really take any extra physical effort. Once you can comfortably slide down the mountain sideways for as long as you want, then change the angle of the boards to control your speed. Start on a relatively steep hill that way you do not have to go fast at all to practice slowly scrubbing and maintaining a comfortable speed down the hill.
        www.skiboardbindings.com GGO Co-Founder

        Check out a review of our bindings http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=13031 (Thanks Rob)

        My setup:
        DLP/Ktps (randomly switch)
        Condors, not rockered (powder/crap conditions board)
        GGO soft boot bindings
        Ride RFL Snowboard Boots

        Comment


        • #5
          What bindings are you using?

          You can't go wrong with the Revolts. The KTP's are also good, but with your weight I'd only recommend them if you're a very aggressive rider. The softer flex of the Revolts will give you a better ride.
          RVL8 Condors - The Flex will be with me, always...until I break them

          Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming... "WOW! WHAT A RIDE!!"

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by CrazyBoy-1 View Post
            What bindings are you using?

            You can't go wrong with the Revolts. The KTP's are also good, but with your weight I'd only recommend them if you're a very aggressive rider. The softer flex of the Revolts will give you a better ride.


            I'm on Non release bindings. I ended up getting the revolts and trying them out this weekend. First time on longer wider boards, so theyre might be a learning curve!

            Comment

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