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  • Waxing iron

    Hey All,

    I put this in the gear section as I wasn't sure exactly where it fit and it is gear - sorta. Anyone looking to start waxing their own boards needs the right equipment. That means good, "all temperature" wax (Available right here at SBOL. I'm a Hertel guy but this sort of thing is Ford and Chevy. Drive what you like. You only need purpose specific wax in Spring when the pollen and other goodies pollute the snow grinding us to a sticky halt), at least one scraper, a green scrubby pad and an iron. The iron is clearly the big ticket item. But, it doesn't have to be. Actually, this iron is "all that". You'll love it and do a great job with it. The idea is to crank up the heat until the wax smokes. Then, dial it back just to the point it stops smoking and you are perfect. No need to ever touch the temperature setting again until/unless you change waxes. Then, just do the little temperature setting dance, again. Trust me on this one. $25 bucks.

    http://www.amazon.com/Continental-El...s=classic+iron

    I wanted to add, do not be afraid of places like Good Will or 2nd hand shops. What you want is an iron with a heavy base. The heavier the better. A heavy base makes for a consistent temperature. I like irons without steam vents because you don't need them. A flat base is a good base. But, if you have an old iron you are not using with holes in it then use that puppy. Of course, once you use it for waxing it can never be used for anything else ever again. Just make sure all the water has burned off. You don't want steam coming out when waxing. That's bad.
    "It's no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society" Jiddu Krisnamurti

    Spruce Sherpa - RVL8 KTP - RVL8 Blunt XL

  • #2
    I want to add to this as Santa bought me an iron and some wax and before we came up on this trip I waxed the crap out of my boards.

    I am always one to drop them at the shop after every second or third trip, but WOW.... My own waxing job blows the ski shop away. Almost like they didn't even wax them. As soon as I dropped my boards on the snow... They almost wanted to run away from me. They never reacted like that after a shop wax.

    I am truly a convert. I will be waxing on my own from now on!
    33 down, 12 to go!

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    • #3
      Zach,

      Now what you need to do is drop by the hardware store or wherever you can get one of those soft sanding blocks. What you will do with it is attach the green scrubby pad to it. Then, at the end of each day you run the scrubby pad over your boards 4 or 5 times (I do 7 but...) to freshen up the boards. No need to go nuts with the whole waxing routine but remember that a smooth base is a predictable base. That means the base will react consistently to your input. A beat up, dirty, unmaintained base will not. Again though, no need to go nuts. When you see bleach lines, drip on some more goodness, iron it in, scrape it off, scrubby pad it for that beautiful look and get back to doing what we do.
      "It's no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society" Jiddu Krisnamurti

      Spruce Sherpa - RVL8 KTP - RVL8 Blunt XL

      Comment


      • #4
        I have used this iron for 3 years and have been very happy with it. I know some people who purchased other irons around this price point but were not happy with them due to inconsistent temperature - i.e., the iron wouldn't hold the right temp (cooled down) once you started running it over the board.

        http://www.tognar.com/brands/Apogee.html
        In pursuit of Peace, Harmony and Flow.....
        Think Like a Mountain

        Boards ridden, some owned: Sherpas, Spruce 120 "STS", Blunts, DS110 custom prototypes, Rockered Condors, Revolts, DLPs, Summit Custom 110s, Summit Marauders, Head 94s, Raptor prototypes, Osprey prototypes.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Bluewing View Post
          I have used this iron for 3 years and have been very happy with it. I know some people who purchased other irons around this price point but were not happy with them due to inconsistent temperature - i.e., the iron wouldn't hold the right temp (cooled down) once you started running it over the board.

          http://www.tognar.com/brands/Apogee.html
          thanks for reminding me. i need to get more in stock - http://www.skiboardsonline.com/p/saa_iron.html

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Greco View Post
            thanks for reminding me. i need to get more in stock - http://www.skiboardsonline.com/p/saa_iron.html
            I picked this one up a couple seasons ago and it has worked great.
            Skis: Armada JJs, Armada Magic Js and Icelantic Keepers
            Bindings: Marker Griffon, Look Pivot
            Full Tilt Boots
            Past: Revel8 Tanshos, KTPs, Revolts, DLPs, Condors; Spruce Raptors, 120s, Sherpas

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Greco View Post
              thanks for reminding me. i need to get more in stock - http://www.skiboardsonline.com/p/saa_iron.html
              That looks like the exact same iron just with different branding so it should work great for everyone.
              In pursuit of Peace, Harmony and Flow.....
              Think Like a Mountain

              Boards ridden, some owned: Sherpas, Spruce 120 "STS", Blunts, DS110 custom prototypes, Rockered Condors, Revolts, DLPs, Summit Custom 110s, Summit Marauders, Head 94s, Raptor prototypes, Osprey prototypes.

              Comment

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