Originally posted by hyperguy
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My backround is that I used to fit skiboots. Now I build, modifiie, design, and fit shoes, orthotics and prosthetics as a board certified foot and ankle expert.
In a skiboot your toe should just touch the front when your standing up. If you have a mortons toe (second toe longer than the big toe) make sure you go off that toe (thats more of an american trait). Otherwise go off the big toe. When you lean forward your toe should pull away from the front between 1/2 to a full thumb nails length.
The Second thing is to take out the insole, which matches the last shape (the basic shape of any shoe or boot), and match your heel to the back of the insole and then center it between 1st and 5th met heads (the balls of your feet).
You shouldn't be able to see the insole wider than your feet. if it is then you won't have any control. For example: When you go to hockey stop you will have to wait till your foot hits the side of the boot before you can control the board. Every motion takes longer and is excellerated causing more stress on the body.
On the other hand, if the insole is narrower than any part of your foot then it will lift the 5th met locking the mid tarsle joints causing midtarsle and paraniel tendonitis (in other words your foot will hurt allot).
The last thing I suggest is an insole. Nothing soft! In this sport it would hurt you more than it would help.
Instead take one thats hard with a beveled (cupped) heel (Which gives you better edge control and pinches the fatty pad on your heel giving you 2.5 times more cushion than any man made matierial without losing stability) and an arch that contacts in the back of the arch ( this puts it under a bone called the navicular (that thing that buldges out under the ankle when you put weight on your foot).
If you contact that bone with in a half a millimeter of its nuetural position you get 33% more muscle effectiveness. That means more strength, balance, and fewer injuries). dont support the middle of the arch which does nothing to help and risks blisters as well as takes cushion away from the body ( most important for you park junkies) and not the front of the arch which does all of the things the middle of the arch does but also risks the 1st MPJoint (the big toe\ball of the foot joint).
The best way to do it is get a Functional custom orthotic ( one where they cast your foot in the air and position your foot in a nuetural position) or custom insole but those are both pricey. So if price is an issue then get Superfeet, Powerstep, or Sofsole stable runners. Place them on the insole you've taken out of your boot and place them against you foot with you toes flexed up. It should barely touch the back of the arch and abide by all the earlier rules.
If you use a new insole, place the old insole on top match it to the heel and to where the balls of your feet sit and then trace around the old insole with a pen. then trim the new insole along the tracing so it fits the boots perfectly. from there throw out the old insoles
Here is the sum up.
1: When standing up the toes should barely touch the front and should pull away when you lean forward.
2: Then match the insole toe your foot. It shouldn't be wider or narrower than any part of your foot except possibly your toes.
3: Add new firm cupped arch support insoles for 33% more muscle effectiveness for more strength, balance, edge control, and fewer injuries. Make sure it barely touches the back of your arch, not the front or the middle, and that it follows the same rules as the original insole. Trim it to the shape of the original insole by tracing and throw out the original.
In a skiboot your toe should just touch the front when your standing up. If you have a mortons toe (second toe longer than the big toe) make sure you go off that toe (thats more of an american trait). Otherwise go off the big toe. When you lean forward your toe should pull away from the front between 1/2 to a full thumb nails length.
The Second thing is to take out the insole, which matches the last shape (the basic shape of any shoe or boot), and match your heel to the back of the insole and then center it between 1st and 5th met heads (the balls of your feet).
You shouldn't be able to see the insole wider than your feet. if it is then you won't have any control. For example: When you go to hockey stop you will have to wait till your foot hits the side of the boot before you can control the board. Every motion takes longer and is excellerated causing more stress on the body.
On the other hand, if the insole is narrower than any part of your foot then it will lift the 5th met locking the mid tarsle joints causing midtarsle and paraniel tendonitis (in other words your foot will hurt allot).
The last thing I suggest is an insole. Nothing soft! In this sport it would hurt you more than it would help.
Instead take one thats hard with a beveled (cupped) heel (Which gives you better edge control and pinches the fatty pad on your heel giving you 2.5 times more cushion than any man made matierial without losing stability) and an arch that contacts in the back of the arch ( this puts it under a bone called the navicular (that thing that buldges out under the ankle when you put weight on your foot).
If you contact that bone with in a half a millimeter of its nuetural position you get 33% more muscle effectiveness. That means more strength, balance, and fewer injuries). dont support the middle of the arch which does nothing to help and risks blisters as well as takes cushion away from the body ( most important for you park junkies) and not the front of the arch which does all of the things the middle of the arch does but also risks the 1st MPJoint (the big toe\ball of the foot joint).
The best way to do it is get a Functional custom orthotic ( one where they cast your foot in the air and position your foot in a nuetural position) or custom insole but those are both pricey. So if price is an issue then get Superfeet, Powerstep, or Sofsole stable runners. Place them on the insole you've taken out of your boot and place them against you foot with you toes flexed up. It should barely touch the back of the arch and abide by all the earlier rules.
If you use a new insole, place the old insole on top match it to the heel and to where the balls of your feet sit and then trace around the old insole with a pen. then trim the new insole along the tracing so it fits the boots perfectly. from there throw out the old insoles
Here is the sum up.
1: When standing up the toes should barely touch the front and should pull away when you lean forward.
2: Then match the insole toe your foot. It shouldn't be wider or narrower than any part of your foot except possibly your toes.
3: Add new firm cupped arch support insoles for 33% more muscle effectiveness for more strength, balance, edge control, and fewer injuries. Make sure it barely touches the back of your arch, not the front or the middle, and that it follows the same rules as the original insole. Trim it to the shape of the original insole by tracing and throw out the original.
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