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  1. #1 Binding Mounting Question (actually 2 questions) 
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    OK, so sorry if these may be silly questions...and I think I just answered one of them....but I just want to be as knowledgeable as possible!

    1) I am confused about what "mounting directly to the board" means when talked about with non-Revel8 boards. On the Revel8 boards, obviously you have the 4 hole mount, a riser of sorts (I have Line FF bindings so the riser is a rubber piece....not sure what else to call it) and then the binding itself. But those holes, regardless if it is the Revel8, 4 hole mount or any other configuration....those holes are "in the board"....so that is where I am confused. Are you not really still "mounting to the board"? (NOTE: I think it means that there is a metal insert to accept the screw as opposed to actually just screwing into the board like you would if you were building a house or something with wood...and if that is the case, then I can see why mounting to the board is ridiculous and why would anyone even think to do that? CAn easily see how if it rips out you are screwed...no pun intended!).

    2) I just put my Line FF bindings on some odlder Revolts (Thanks again Branden! Finally gonna off the Line Flys which look like dwarfs next to the Revolts). How tight should I tighten the 4 screws? I tightened them and then made sure they were REALLY tight (by hand, not with a power screwdriver). Is it possible to be "too tight"? I just don't want them to loosen up...but also don't want to cause damage.

    THANKS FOR YOUR REPLIES!
    Derek
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  2. #2  
    Hardcore Skiboarder jjue's Avatar
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    skiboards can be mounted with bindings in two ways ... they can be drilled like skis directly into the wood cores and the bindings can be screwed into the skiboard with wood screws , OR bindings can be mounted screwed into factory provided metal inserts in the skiboard with machine screws like snowboards are mounted with bindings . Greco has a policy that SBOL will ONLY sell boards that have factory provided metal inserts and will not sell skiboards that have drilled bindings mounted with wood screws into the wood cores of the skiboards.. I strongly believe that the inserts are the way to go for a number of reasons 1/ directly drilled bindings can pull out catastrophically out of the skiboard suddenly , whereas insert mount bindings tend to loosen rather then pull out catastrophically and you can notice that and just tighten the binding down . Skis which are mounted with drilled bindings are longer and spread the load out over a longer area whereas skiboards are quite short and have a lot of load over shorter length , leading to more stress on the binding mount , the more aggressive you are the more I worry about drilled bindings 2/ drilled bindings can disturb the natural flex of short skiboards as opposed to insert mounted skiboards 3/ insert mounted skiboards allow you to move your binding to different skiboards easily , letting you buy one binding and several skiboards.

    just tighten the screws hand tight , DO NOT USE A POWER SCREWDRIVER
    Boards :
    Blunt Xls -SBOL Modified GNU Rear Entry Snowboard Bindings
    Rockered Condors- SBOL Modified Sims Cipher Snowboard Bindings
    Rockered Condors - Backcountry modified RVL8 Receptor Binding -
    Spliffs -Backcountry modified RVL8 Receptor binding
    Spruce Osprey - Center Mounted with Spruce Backcountry riser/ Ambition AT binding
    Spruce Sherpa - Rear Mounted with Spruce Backcountry riser/ Fritschi AT binding

    Boots:
    Ride Insano Snowboard Boots
    Full Tilt Booters
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  3. #3  
    Hardcore Skiboarder Bill's Avatar
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    monadock,

    You're exactly correct, "directly to the board" is a shorthand way of explaining how conventional release bindings and cheap "8-hole" nonrelease bindings are mounted to the ski/skiboard, literally with self-tapping wood screws, as opposed to "insert-mounted", meaning removable machine screws into the factory inserts on proper skiboards.

    A good, two fisted snug with a screwdriver will do fine for torquing down your bindings. A good tip is to snug all four, then go back and re-snug in the opposite order. You'll feel them "get tight", and that's tight enough.

    edit: I was writing while Jack was posting, but I think we said much the same thing.
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  4. #4  
    Hardcore Skiboarder CrazyBoy-1's Avatar
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    One thing I've learned to do is to recheck the screws and bolts on bindings after a couple runs. Decreases in temperature and the stresses of use can loosen the hardware and cause slop in the whole system. Once you have them snugged after those break-in runs though, you should be good to go.
    RVL8 Condors - The Flex will be with me, always...until I break them

    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming... "WOW! WHAT A RIDE!!"
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