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Top Sheet Edge Chamfering (to prevent chipping)

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  • #31
    Originally posted by slow View Post
    It is difficult for the manufacturer to put in the chamfer in any automated method since the accummulation of manufacturing tolerances are built up from the bottom of the skiboard to the top sheet. It would most likely also be a manual process for the manufacturer and it would therefore add a lot of cost.
    Line skis came out with "Capwall" this year which combines Cap along the top edge and sidewall below the small cap. I'm not sure how well it works but it's a great idea.

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    • #32
      I will have to dig out a picture I have of a snowboard my daughter had a number of years ago. She may still have it. I believe it used the same construction as the capwall.
      sigpic


      Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

      Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

      Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


      Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

      Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

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      • #33
        Yup, other companies have been doing it for a few years now. My 2008 Armada JJ's have this same design. At the tips and tails they are just cap, and then there is a section with sidewall underfoot.
        I do it because I can.
        I can because I want to.
        I want to because you said I couldn't.

        "The butterflies in my stomach have flown up through my throat and learned to love the open air." - World/Inferno

        Spruce Sherpas with Prime Pros
        '08 KTPs

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        • #34
          BTW: I like the concept since it is the tips and tails that take the beating on my boards.
          sigpic


          Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

          Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

          Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


          Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

          Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

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          • #35
            Here is a picture of the ~ 5 year old K2 snowboard with the hybrid construction. She still has it and it is in great shape.

            sigpic


            Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

            Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

            Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


            Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

            Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

            Comment


            • #36
              I wanted to add that a sanding sponge, like 3M makes, works great too. I use the short side of it so I don't sand more than the edge.

              http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glTL033QDJKWbl
              In pursuit of Peace, Harmony and Flow.....
              Think Like a Mountain

              Boards ridden, some owned: Sherpas, Spruce 120 "STS", Blunts, DS110 custom prototypes, Rockered Condors, Revolts, DLPs, Summit Custom 110s, Summit Marauders, Head 94s, Raptor prototypes, Osprey prototypes.

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              • #37
                I don't know a lot about board construction, but some boards seem to be very susceptible to edge damage and others not.

                The Summit Customs and Trees I have just seem to crumble at the edges with the slightest touch. They can't even ride in the car without getting nicked. I have to carry clear nail varnish to touch them up at night when we ski two days in a row. The Summits are a little better since I camphered them, but they are still very brittle.

                On the other hand, the Summit Jades and Spruce 120s never seem to get damaged. The edge seems to finished differently? Perhaps recessed a little from the edge and smoothed over. Much, much better than the other boards. Gets to be a pain having to repair your boards every time you use them.
                Just these, nothing else !

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Bad Wolf View Post
                  I don't know a lot about board construction, but some boards seem to be very susceptible to edge damage and others not.

                  The Summit Customs and Trees I have just seem to crumble at the edges with the slightest touch. They can't even ride in the car without getting nicked. I have to carry clear nail varnish to touch them up at night when we ski two days in a row. The Summits are a little better since I camphered them, but they are still very brittle.

                  On the other hand, the Summit Jades and Spruce 120s never seem to get damaged. The edge seems to finished differently? Perhaps recessed a little from the edge and smoothed over. Much, much better than the other boards. Gets to be a pain having to repair your boards every time you use them.
                  The edges of my pair of Trees are also crumbled after only using them for 3 weeks. So I'm going to sand them to prevent future damage.
                  The big holes need to be filled with epoxy right? Is nail varnish only a temporary fix or just as good?
                  Boards: Revel8 "Revolt" (Trees)
                  Bindings: Bomber "Elite 2"
                  Boots: Full Tilt "High Five"
                  Helmet: POC "Skull Light PP edition"

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Zielco View Post
                    The edges of my pair of Trees are also crumbled after only using them for 3 weeks. So I'm going to sand them to prevent future damage.
                    The big holes need to be filled with epoxy right? Is nail varnish only a temporary fix or just as good?
                    The nail varnish was just a quick fix for trips. I usually sand the edges of the boards and use a quality sealant varnish. Others may have, but I have never tried to fill the chips with epoxy, I just sand them smooth.

                    My Summit Customs got so bad I sanded the entire top sheet and edges and refinished the whole board.
                    Just these, nothing else !

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by Bad Wolf View Post
                      The nail varnish was just a quick fix for trips. I usually sand the edges of the boards and use a quality sealant varnish. Others may have, but I have never tried to fill the chips with epoxy, I just sand them smooth.

                      My Summit Customs got so bad I sanded the entire top sheet and edges and refinished the whole board.
                      Allright. I've sanded the edges and it looks pretty good. Only need to fill up the damaged parts; ordered Araldite® Rapid epoxy for that tnx
                      Boards: Revel8 "Revolt" (Trees)
                      Bindings: Bomber "Elite 2"
                      Boots: Full Tilt "High Five"
                      Helmet: POC "Skull Light PP edition"

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                      • #41
                        How well does this work to prevent "slices" in the sides? After 2 full days of riding my Revolts I have 5 or so good slices where the edges must've hit the top side of the other board.

                        I used clear nail polish the first time around, can anyone recommend a quality epoxy?
                        2010 Revolt Bullseye | Bomber Elite Bindings | Dalbello Voodoo Boots

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by mikalcarbine View Post
                          How well does this work to prevent "slices" in the sides? After 2 full days of riding my Revolts I have 5 or so good slices where the edges must've hit the top side of the other board.

                          I used clear nail polish the first time around, can anyone recommend a quality epoxy?
                          Try JB Weld. It mixes up to a grey color so it may not be pretty, but it's super effective. In 2009 my brother had the top sheet of his snowboard peel off while in use. Ended up exposing the wood in an area about the size of a piece of pizza. He hit it with a hair dryer that night at the hotel, used rental gear the rest of the trip, then tossed the busted board into storage when we got back with the intent of turning it into a work bench. It was totally forgotten about until last month when we pulled it out of storage and pasted it back together with JB Weld just for shits and giggles. It's now seen 30 hours of heavy use with no ill effects.
                          Signatures are the online equivalent of an elevator fart. Here's anther one for you: CUPCAKE!

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by mikalcarbine View Post
                            How well does this work to prevent "slices" in the sides? After 2 full days of riding my Revolts I have 5 or so good slices where the edges must've hit the top side of the other board.

                            I used clear nail polish the first time around, can anyone recommend a quality epoxy?
                            This is a problem with sidewall constructed skiboards. The "chamfering" does help. I use a hand sander to do it. The Blunts are sidewall but seem very resistents to edge dings. I think they have different design specifications?

                            A good 24 hour marine grade epoxy from Ace is suitable for most skiboard fixes.
                            Just these, nothing else !

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by Bad Wolf View Post
                              This is a problem with sidewall constructed skiboards. The "chamfering" does help. I use a hand sander to do it. The Blunts are sidewall but seem very resistents to edge dings. I think they have different design specifications?

                              A good 24 hour marine grade epoxy from Ace is suitable for most skiboard fixes.
                              Actually, it's a problem with ALL types of construction. Sharp metal edges and soft plastic . . . . only ever going to be one winner. Difference is, with cap construction you can at least repair it to some extent. The difference between the Blunts and other r8 boards is that the sidewalls on the blunts are angled in much more so are a bit more out of harms way. You can do this with other R8 boards if you have the workshop skills. I always do with mine.

                              Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
                              Sticky Icky Icky (go to dream board)
                              Most everything else over time.
                              Go Android

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