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Top Sheet Edge Chamfering (to prevent chipping)

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  • #16
    Originally posted by dis View Post
    The video isn't working for me. Is there another link?
    worked for me. have you tried a different browser?

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    • #17
      Odd, it's working now.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Greco View Post
        worked for me. have you tried a different browser?
        Likewise, but I had to be patient for it to load.
        sigpic


        Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

        Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

        Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


        Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

        Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

        Comment


        • #19
          Will chamfering void my warranty?

          I'm not too worried about quality as it seems R8s last quite a while, and in a year I'll probably get <10 days on em, but defects are possible.
          Revel8 2010 ALP, Black Receptors, Nordica Hot Rod 75's

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          • #20
            got this right?

            Okay so I was reading this and I'm wondering if I understand this correctly. So if you barely file the edge of the top sheet so its no longer flush with the sidewall will prevent chipping? You only want to take off just a tiny bit correct? Now this won't damage or allow water to get underneath right? Why isn't this done with skis or snowboards? Will it make your boards last longer or is it just for cosmetic reasons? I think I understand the concept I just wanted to clear some things up.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Nessagirl18 View Post
              Okay so I was reading this and I'm wondering if I understand this correctly. So if you barely file the edge of the top sheet so its no longer flush with the sidewall will prevent chipping? You only want to take off just a tiny bit correct? Now this won't damage or allow water to get underneath right? Why isn't this done with skis or snowboards? Will it make your boards last longer or is it just for cosmetic reasons? I think I understand the concept I just wanted to clear some things up.
              I take off the thickness of the top sheet at a 45 degree angle so the sidewall takes the dings. As long as you do not start taking sidewall off, there is no risk of water getting underneath. The chamfering helps with the cosmetics unless the ding is large enough to expose the wood core. But at that point, the chamfering did not serve its intended purpose.
              sigpic


              Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

              Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

              Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


              Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

              Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by Nessagirl18 View Post
                Okay so I was reading this and I'm wondering if I understand this correctly. So if you barely file the edge of the top sheet so its no longer flush with the sidewall will prevent chipping? You only want to take off just a tiny bit correct? Now this won't damage or allow water to get underneath right? Why isn't this done with skis or snowboards? Will it make your boards last longer or is it just for cosmetic reasons? I think I understand the concept I just wanted to clear some things up.
                I do this to all my sidewall constructed boards, and it seems to really help. It creates a more rounded edge which keeps it from catching ice, hard pack snow, or whatever. When you think about an arc's smoothness compared to a right angle, it makes sense. Doing a light filing or sanding will not expose enough to allow water in. I imagine some people are doing this with their skis and snowboards also. I think it's more of a cosmetic thing.

                Skiboards:
                2013 Spruce Sherpas w/Tyrolia Peak 11s
                2015 RVL8 Blunt XLs w/Tyrolia Attack 13s
                2018 Spruce Crossbows w/Tyrolia Peak 11s
                2017 RVL8 Sticky Icky Ickys w/Tyrolia SX 10s


                Boots:
                Salomon X-Pro 80

                Past boards: Salomon Snowblades, Line MNPs 89 & 98 cm, Five-Os, Bullets, Jedis, Spruce 120s, LE 125s, Ospreys
                Summit 110s, Nomads, Jades, RVL8 ALPs, BWPs, KTPs, Tanshos, Rockets, DLPs, Blunts, Condors, RCs, Revolts, Spliffs

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                • #23
                  Alright thanks

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                  • #24
                    Help?

                    Hey I'm new here and I can't figure out how to look at the pictures attached to the main post and I'd really like to know how. All that happens when I click on them is I get a new tab and a blank white screen. I tried with 3 browsers nothing worked. Help? Also the video doesn't work but thats a different problem.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Tho1efX View Post
                      Hey I'm new here and I can't figure out how to look at the pictures attached to the main post and I'd really like to know how. All that happens when I click on them is I get a new tab and a blank white screen. I tried with 3 browsers nothing worked. Help? Also the video doesn't work but thats a different problem.

                      I will need to dig up the original pictures and video and relink. Give me a few days to clean things up.
                      sigpic


                      Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

                      Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

                      Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


                      Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

                      Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        @Slow

                        Thank you very much. No rush, my boards wont get here till Wednesday and I cant use them till the weekend (maybe not even then).

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Picture and video links editted. Should be OK now.

                          Greco, please delete the attached pictures (which are blank now), thanks.
                          sigpic


                          Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

                          Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

                          Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


                          Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

                          Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Thanks.

                            Thank you very much slow. I appreciate it.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Would it be possible or desirable to include as a manufacturing / design change in the future (to put such a factory edge on the board)? I have done this to all my boards and it did seem to help (especially with beginning / first times out when more board banging happens).

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by PeteJE View Post
                                Would it be possible or desirable to include as a manufacturing / design change in the future (to put such a factory edge on the board)? I have done this to all my boards and it did seem to help (especially with beginning / first times out when more board banging happens).
                                It is difficult for the manufacturer to put in the chamfer in any automated method since the accummulation of manufacturing tolerances are built up from the bottom of the skiboard to the top sheet. It would most likely also be a manual process for the manufacturer and it would therefore add a lot of cost.
                                sigpic


                                Osprey, Sherpa, Custom Coda 120WT, Custom DS110, Condor (Green), Spliff

                                Custom Twist Out duck foot bindings, Bombers (custom duck foot base plate and 3 pads), releasable S810ti on custom duck foot riser

                                Nordica N3 NXT ski boots (best so far)


                                Wife: 104 SII & 100 Blunt XL with S810ti bindings on custom "adjustable duck foot" risers

                                Loaners: 125LE, 105 EMP, 101 KTP, 100 Blunt XL, 98 Slapdash, 88 Blunts

                                Comment

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