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  • Attack 13s Question

    Quick question.

    Can you use the Attack 13s without the brakes. I know on some bindings you can, but in others you need a heel piece to replace the brake?
    Just these, nothing else !


  • #2
    Originally posted by Bad Wolf View Post
    Quick question.

    Can you use the Attack 13s without the brakes. I know on some bindings you can, but in others you need a heel piece to replace the brake?
    The heel piece is a part of the brake. I don't have one in front of me to see if it's possible but I seem to remember Jeff saying it's very tricky to remove the brake from the heel pad.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Greco View Post
      The heel piece is a part of the brake. I don't have one in front of me to see if it's possible but I seem to remember Jeff saying it's very tricky to remove the brake from the heel pad.
      Greco is right. It isn't an easy job. valmorel and I have removed Attack 13's brake arms.
      Each heel piece has two separate brake arms. A left-hand and a right-hand one. The whole assembly is under spring tension. There is a long 3-4mm galvanised steel pin which passes through the heel piece plastic moulding from left to right behind the brake arms (the rearward hole in the first picture below). Remove the brake assembly from the binding first. The pin has to driven out far enough with a drift and hammer to be able to grab the end with pliers so it can be carefully pulled out, bearing in mind that there are springs under tension in the assembly around it. Beware - it is very easy to damage the plastic moulding.

      Once the pin, brake arms, springs et cetera have been removed, screw the heel piece back onto the binding again.

      IT IS ESSENTIAL TO USE LEASHES



      Last edited by Gromit; 01-14-2017, 05:04 AM. Reason: Added detail - remove brake from binding
      Spruce Crossbow 115 "Ski Track" skiboards - My Go To skiboards
      Tyrolia Attack2 13 GW release bindings on Spruce Risers
      Nordica HF110 ski boots

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the info.

        I had wanted to use my risers on the Ickys and XLs, but the difference in brake width between the boards is too great to make one set of brakes work for both. I'm not sure if I want to deconstruct a binding just to get a brakeless option, especially if that means bending over to attach leashes. I used the bindings on the XLs today and the brakes just rested on the top sheet. I guess I could do that and just attaches leashes.

        Why is this stuff never easy. It's like the manufacturers know what we are up to?
        Just these, nothing else !

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Bad Wolf View Post
          Thanks for the info.

          I had wanted to use my risers on the Ickys and XLs, but the difference in brake width between the boards is too great to make one set of brakes work for both. I'm not sure if I want to deconstruct a binding just to get a brakeless option, especially if that means bending over to attach leashes. I used the bindings on the XLs today and the brakes just rested on the top sheet. I guess I could do that and just attaches leashes.

          Why is this stuff never easy. It's like the manufacturers know what we are up to?
          Or buy another set of Spruce Risers and Attack 13s with XL width brakes? [emoji6][emoji4]
          Spruce Crossbow 115 "Ski Track" skiboards - My Go To skiboards
          Tyrolia Attack2 13 GW release bindings on Spruce Risers
          Nordica HF110 ski boots

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Gromit View Post
            Or buy another set of Spruce Risers and Attack 13s with XL width brakes? [emoji6][emoji4]
            I do have spare Attacks and wider brakes, but I was hoping for a set up that I could switch out between the Ickys and XLs with minimal fuss. I will end up making a pair of dedicated risers for the XLs, although I really don't want to travel with two sets of risers.

            As an aside, I had already planned on fabricating the riser to use the front and back insert holes on the XLs. They have a 4x4 set back, so I can actually turn that into a 4x8 pattern. It should help reduce the torque on the riser.
            Just these, nothing else !

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Bad Wolf View Post
              I had wanted to use my risers on the Ickys and XLs, but the difference in brake width between the boards is too great to make one set of brakes work for both.
              What problem did you have? I rode an entire season with Attack 13 and super wide brakes for my XL and switched between several boards including the fairly narrow Slapdashes. I don't recall any issues except carrying the narrow mounted boards, but a pair of board straps took care of that. I now have an extra riser with Salomon bindings and narrower brakes but still use the A13 and wide breaks on narrow boards sometimes.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Fun Machine View Post
                What problem did you have? I rode an entire season with Attack 13 and super wide brakes for my XL and switched between several boards including the fairly narrow Slapdashes. I don't recall any issues except carrying the narrow mounted boards, but a pair of board straps took care of that. I now have an extra riser with Salomon bindings and narrower brakes but still use the A13 and wide breaks on narrow boards sometimes.
                I've been working really hard on try to ride with my boards closer together this season. It may not be an issue, but it worries me that the extra wide brakes may bind up. It hasn't happen'd to me whilst riding, but it did on the lift; I had to scramble to unhook the brake arms before we unloaded.
                Just these, nothing else !

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Bad Wolf View Post
                  I've been working really hard on try to ride with my boards closer together this season. It may not be an issue, but it worries me that the extra wide brakes may bind up. It hasn't happen'd to me whilst riding, but it did on the lift; I had to scramble to unhook the brake arms before we unloaded.
                  I started out on straight skis before carvers became the rage, so I ride my boards very close together - the surfaces have all chipped badly along the inside edges. I've never had the wide brakes catch on each other, but I can see that happening if you're twisting the boards in-plane. The old school technique I was taught was to point the downhill knee into the popliteal of the upper leg (backside of the upper knee) which forces the lower board back as you bring the boards on edge to turn, so the brakes go out-of-plane and don't have a chance to catch. But you may be safer getting narrower brakes.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bad Wolf View Post
                    I do have spare Attacks and wider brakes, but I was hoping for a set up that I could switch out between the Ickys and XLs with minimal fuss. I will end up making a pair of dedicated risers for the XLs, although I really don't want to travel with two sets of risers.

                    As an aside, I had already planned on fabricating the riser to use the front and back insert holes on the XLs. They have a 4x4 set back, so I can actually turn that into a 4x8 pattern. It should help reduce the torque on the riser.
                    What about using your binding freedom inserts to your advantage and just swapping out brakes whenever you switch boards? This might be a lot more manageable for you now that you are riding one board per day and it seems to be mostly the same board?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Attack 13s Question

                      Originally posted by macrophotog View Post
                      What about using your binding freedom inserts to your advantage and just swapping out brakes whenever you switch boards? This might be a lot more manageable for you now that you are riding one board per day and it seems to be mostly the same board?
                      That's what I'll end up doing. The inserts do allow you to swap out the brakes, but it is something you would do the night before rather than slope side. I could bring both boards but would have to commit to one for the day. If I took the brakes off I could have both boards at the resort and swap them out on the fly.

                      I also liked the idea of traveling without the brakes, as they can get tough to pack around, especially the 150mm version.
                      Just these, nothing else !

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Attack 13s Question

                        Originally posted by Bad Wolf View Post
                        That's what I'll end up doing. The inserts do allow you to swap out the brakes, but it is something you would do the night before rather than slope side. I could bring both boards but would have to commit to one for the day. If I took the brakes off I could have both boards at the resort and swap them out on the fly.

                        I also liked the idea of traveling without the brakes, as they can get tough to pack around, especially the 150mm version.
                        Ok. . . Here is possibly a better idea. . . Tyrolia has come out with version 2 of many of it's brakes claiming significantly more retraction (see: http://www.tyrolia.com/en/technology/innovations.html). You need to purchase one of the 150mm models here: http://www.coloradodiscountskis.com/...oduct1170.html that is listed as a Power Brake 2 and see if the additional retraction is indeed enough on such a wide brake for it not to overhang so much on the narrower boards. . .

                        Here is a picture of one of the version 2 brakes on my PRD bindings - this is 110mm brake on 85mm ski and the retraction has it real close to the edge of the ski. . . So maybe a 150mm version 2 wouldn't be nearly as far overhang on the 106mm wide SII as the current old version brakes are that hardly seem to retract at all. . .

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by macrophotog View Post
                          You need to purchase one of the 150mm models here: http://www.coloradodiscountskis.com/...oduct1170.html
                          Or try the 130mm brake and see if it has just enough clearance over the 138mm XL, but I definitely would not try bending the 130mm brake in fear that you would lose the additional retractability of the version 2 brake.

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                          • #14
                            I'm so ashamed!

                            I feel like such a gear whore! I have the 95mm, 110mm, and 130mm brakes with the 150's due to show up any day. I was able to use the 130mm brakes on the 135mm Yetis, but they were such a close shave that I finally broke down last week and picked up a set of the 150's. (Now I'll try releasables on the Blunts) The 110's seemed to have a bit more clearance on the Sherpas than the 130's had on the Yetis. I guess the riser elevates them up enough, coupled with outward spread of the brakes, to give them a little extra clearance on the waist. I like the way they tuck in when you step in.
                            171cm/190lbs
                            Current Favorites:
                            RVL8 Yin/Yang Blunts, Spruce Sherpas (x2) & Ospreys, Coda custom Yetis v1 140
                            Spruce Pro Primes w/Attack 13's (x 4), Bomber Elite 1
                            Other boards I'm trying:
                            Summit Custom Carbon 110, Dynastar Twin 85, Coda custom Yetis v2 145

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Fedfan View Post
                              I feel like such a gear whore! I have the 95mm, 110mm, and 130mm brakes with the 150's due to show up any day. I was able to use the 130mm brakes on the 135mm Yetis, but they were such a close shave that I finally broke down last week and picked up a set of the 150's. (Now I'll try releasables on the Blunts) The 110's seemed to have a bit more clearance on the Sherpas than the 130's had on the Yetis. I guess the riser elevates them up enough, coupled with outward spread of the brakes, to give them a little extra clearance on the waist. I like the way they tuck in when you step in.
                              Are you swapping out brakes on the same riser/binding set up using machine screws instead of the self-tappers?

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