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Any particular upright ski boots good for carving?

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  • Any particular upright ski boots good for carving?

    I am wondering what are some good model ski boots for carving. I have a pair of Lange Freeride but they are too forward leaning for my liking as I'm on skiboards now. Any general tips would be appreciated. Specifically, I have a narrow foot at size US11.5.

    I've read about people using snowboard boots but am unsure if they'll click into a regular ski bindings, which I purchased on the 2012 Marauders. (125cm)

    Lastly, (after first day) I find these skiboards quite slow compared to normal skis (even my last pair of 158cm) ..when I first hopped on them, I thought someone had sabotaged the bases. Ice hold is very poor compared to normal skis with their longer edges, carving is fantastic however, but when I can't do that, I'm doing wide snowplows or walking traverses (this coupled with the slow speed is quite embarrassing.)

    There should be carving parks.
    http://heartcarve.com - Travel into the Future

  • #2
    Atomic hawk . Upright stance , allows you to lean forward when needed . Because marauders are longer you will need to have a little forward pressure to get them going . They have a large surface area and need a good waxing or you will slow down significantly. These are fast boards when used properly . If you edge hold is not great you can try to go with a 88 Deg side edge this might give to a little more bite on harder snow

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    • #3
      Originally posted by adrian33 View Post
      I am wondering what are some good model ski boots for carving. I have a pair of Lange Freeride but they are too forward leaning for my liking as I'm on skiboards now. Any general tips would be appreciated. Specifically, I have a narrow foot at size US11.5.

      I've read about people using snowboard boots but am unsure if they'll click into a regular ski bindings, which I purchased on the 2012 Marauders. (125cm)

      Lastly, (after first day) I find these skiboards quite slow compared to normal skis (even my last pair of 158cm) ..when I first hopped on them, I thought someone had sabotaged the bases. Ice hold is very poor compared to normal skis with their longer edges, carving is fantastic however, but when I can't do that, I'm doing wide snowplows or walking traverses (this coupled with the slow speed is quite embarrassing.)

      There should be carving parks.

      Lots of folks on here like the Full Tilt boot which is usually narrower in the last and has replaceable tounge so the flex can be changed out. There are a few sticky's about them around here I think there is one on the Gear Forum

      If the Maurader was new and you didn't wax it before going out that could explain why it felt sticky/slow. There is just a very light wax coat on the bottom of the marauders. Many of the folks on here like the all temp Hertel Wax ( I just ordered some for myself). But you'll get 50 different answers to the question of which is the best wax.

      The edges on Summit boards are 1degree base bevel and 89 degree side bevel, from my understanding it just means you have to get your boards over on edge even more to get a good bite primarily due to the 1 degree base bevel. From reading on here many folks don't like the 1 degree base bevel and get their boards base ground down to a 0 degree base. I believe Slow has a pair of the marauders and he may be able to offer more insight.

      I hope some of that helps you.

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      • #4
        Right you can't use softboots with releasable bindings. Check out fulltilt if you can find them.

        Remember skiboards are not skis you will have to spend some time on them getting used to the pros and cons. They will not handle ice or chop the same as skis and they might be a tad bit slower, but they should not be slow by any means.
        www.skiboardbindings.com GGO Co-Founder

        Check out a review of our bindings http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=13031 (Thanks Rob)

        My setup:
        DLP/Ktps (randomly switch)
        Condors, not rockered (powder/crap conditions board)
        GGO soft boot bindings
        Ride RFL Snowboard Boots

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Biggie275 View Post
          Atomic hawk .

          I agree. Thanks. I was trying boots on yesterday and think these Hawx are the way to go especially because of the iflex system - the flex pressure is distributed into the front of the boot so it is less concentrated on the shin. This is great.

          They only offer 100 and 120 models round here. I think the 100s are the way to go because I will be able to feel and experience the full range of motion more readily in the 100s - and being able to have the ankles pivot more easily will enable a lower stance and more weight bearing by the boot and less by quadriceps (good for carving in a wider variety of terrain.) I'd like to try the 110s though. If I were on longer skis with poles I'd probably go the 120s. Any thoughts here? Still not sure.

          Waxing - they only offer machine waxing round here weirdly, no iron-on waxing (and this is St Anton with about 10 ski shops) - but will keep looking. Had the boards machine waxed before first day - they really do need a proper iron waxing.

          I wonder if there's market for releasable ski bindings designed for hard snowboard boots, that might be a niche area for skiboarding.

          Thx for replies.
          Last edited by adrian33; 02-06-2012, 06:23 PM. Reason: spelling, extra detail
          http://heartcarve.com - Travel into the Future

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Biggie275 View Post
            Atomic hawk . Upright stance , allows you to lean forward when needed . Because marauders are longer you will need to have a little forward pressure to get them going . They have a large surface area and need a good waxing or you will slow down significantly. These are fast boards when used properly . If you edge hold is not great you can try to go with a 88 Deg side edge this might give to a little more bite on harder snow
            I have the Atomic Hawx 80. I really, really like this boot. Very responsive and performance oriented but also comfortable (they need to fit!!)

            I like the forefoot flex and I think it makes stomping down for an edge have more feel to it I believe.

            I have been all day and half days and never feel the need to unbuckle or readjust even when taking a break and walking about.

            Also - Hertel super hot sauce is pretty great, all-temp, and easy to DIY with. It can be very fast and really lasts once the board is seasoned past several waxings.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by PeteJE View Post
              I have been all day and half days and never feel the need to unbuckle or readjust even when taking a break and walking about.

              Also - Hertel super hot sauce is pretty great, all-temp, and easy to DIY with. It can be very fast and really lasts once the board is seasoned past several waxings.
              I found the same thing today in the Hawx 100s which are a truly great boot perfect for carving.. they can really take the weight of the body in a turn like a car's shock absorber but without pain.. as the turn acceleration builds, the weight of the body can be kept over the ski without depending on leg muscles as with other boots I've tried. And the acceleration just builds to the point where the ski begins pointing uphill if left to do so.

              The first impression with the Marauders today was the wide waist and the extra time and energy to change edges. It doesn't seem like a good ski to learn carving on.

              The skis needed a hot wax and according to the tech were very dry (and that was with one machine wax.) On the first day I was thinking how it said "All Summit skiboards come with factory wax, are fully tuned and ready to ride."

              This is just not true. More like "ready to have an accident." That's why I was so concerned. I suppose no ski comes waxed anyhow..
              http://heartcarve.com - Travel into the Future

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              • #8
                Originally posted by adrian33 View Post
                Ice hold is very poor compared to normal skis with their longer edges, carving is fantastic however, but when I can't do that, I'm doing wide snowplows or walking traverses (this coupled with the slow speed is quite embarrassing.)

                There should be carving parks.
                The Marauder has a 1 degree base bevel. You will get much better ice hold if you have this bevel ground off with a base grind. On hardpack, removing this bevel will change the board a lot.
                Now: 08 Sherpa's (2), Atomic 120's, 2013 125 Protos, 125 LEs, 2014 Sherpas, Osprey protos, 2015 Blunt XL's, 2016 Ospreys, Ethan Too twintip skis,2017 Shredfest One of kind Spliffs, 2018 Crossbows
                Bindings: Spruce Risers and Tyrolia LD12's
                Boots: Full Tilt Booters, Tecnica Agent 110
                History: Atomic shorty's, Sporten, Groove Taxis, Head 94's, ALPs, Spruce 120 Blue boards, Custom Lacroixs, Rocker Condors, 08 Summit 110's, Hagan offlimits 133's, Rossi 130's, 2011 Summit Marauders

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                • #9
                  I ended up going for the Garmont G2 110 - it was the only one that fit long term without pain. The Atomic Hawx 100 were great on the right foot but the heel on the left rubbed badly after a while. I also tried the Nordica Fire Arrow F3: ended up painful on the shins pretty quickly although the heels didn't rub. On the Nordicas I used factory then custom footbeds: both caused different issues.

                  The Garmonts don't cause pain anywhere and a very snug fit (am also using a shop provided insole that slants the foot outward): although the flex and feel of the Atomic Hawx on the right foot was best.

                  Some footage here: http://www.skiboardsonline.com/forum...ad.php?t=13065
                  http://heartcarve.com - Travel into the Future

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